Saturday, 29 June 2013

Bascellos to Ponte Lima

Well  readers, you will not be surprised to read that  commonsense prevailed after our exhausting day yesterday and   we caught a cab for the first part of the 33 km walk. A joint decision I can say but a good one as we were able to arrive mid afternoon into a very pleasant town situated by the river. The added bonus was that our hotel when we found it was a spa hotel offering therapeutic massages. I quickly booked one for later that afternoon. It was a life saver as she was skilled and gave me good advice on managing my knee pain-cold showers from now on! The pain was enough to make me 'pull my ears' but it did the trick and made a difference for several days.Feet are fine-no blisters -boots and thurlo socks to thank for that.

Our walk started well,sun shining and a lovely forested pathway led us down into a river valley sheltered by vineyards and some apple orchards,the inevitable stone walls and narrow roads to negotiate. Fortunately it was a Sunday so the traffic was less as families were having a day of rest and relaxation. Church bells tolled on the hour and the locals emerged from their villages and congregated around the church awaiting the service.
We passed through lots of little villages on this leg- they all run into each other and have very neat, tidy  frontages with lovely colourful displays of lillies, roses, bird of paradise and orchids on balconies.We ate by a little roadside shrine and made our way across country lanes and little pathways leading through the back of the towns until we came close to the river Ponte.The end is in sight.

The villages all had shrines and village crosses which were beautifully tended by local people.Different saints were celebrated by different  villages. We passed a St Miguel church along the way and after about five hours we walked along a lovely river walk through magnificent trees  into the town.This town has an iconic bridge across the river so many photos later...

We enjoyed exploring the old  town centre and visiting the stalls all set up for a celebration-wine I think although there was mention of a garden display too.The day we left there was the most enormous market-tents for miles along the river.People come from all over Portugal for this market-alas we were on a mission so had to leave the market and get on our way.
We did go over the bridge and explored the jardinieres(gardens) which were lovely-peaceful too and full of topiary and boxed hedges.

We ate locally at a cafe and had a pilgrims meal for  seven euros-three courses,amazing value and delicious food. We left in a rainstorm and made our way back to the hotel in a deluge-not a good omen for the following day as we had to go up and over the highest part of the walk. Rain was not on our plan.

Friday, 14 June 2013

 A view of the rio Douro from Porto city....

Kia ora from Vila do Conde-Day 1 of our camino.

 
We had a fabulous few days in Porto exploring the city by bus and metro but I will save that for another story.I want to tell you about the start of our camino adventure.....
We left our Porto hotel this morning at 9.00am and arrived here at 4.30pm so there is much to tell.
Today we left in cool conditions-weather is not summer here yet but good to walk in and the sun came out from the murk as mid day arrived. It has been cool morning and evenings so far but still about 20 degrees during the afternoon.
We walked along the coastal route from Porto city and had a lovely time with the breeze in our faces and the  sound of the waves crashing to shore. A turbulent sea with golden sands and rocky coves for miles. We walked on board walks most of the time as the sand was deep and hard going. My body does not love me tonight!

We walked through quaint fishing villages with nets and cages drying in the sun. Men mending nets and women at work in their gardens. The bays were treacherous-very rocky and narrow entrances so we marvelled at their skill as sailors.

Vila Char was a charming fishing village with character houses and gardens full of familiar plants.Pohutakawa is grown here in vast numbers, apparently highly desirable because it can withstand the harsh coastal conditions thrown up by the Atlantic Ocean storms.

We saw an iron age settlement with the remains of a domestic house at Capela ,rather Celtic in shape and design, the remains of Roman salt tanks and old sailing ships from the days when Portugal ruled the waves.
We walked through sand dunes and along dusty roads-saw my first snake lying on the path-fortunately tiny and sound asleep.We lunched in the sun at the highest point on the way today, 125 m. A rocky outcrop with a climb for the view.

We finally arrived after 6 hours of walking and found we have a lovely hotel room,bags were waiting as promised and a lovely shower as a bonus.
We quickly changed and left to see the lace making museum nearby as it closed at six.We were able to see the lacemakers at work-fascinating skill so bought a small sample to frame.

The day ended with a superb meal at a local cafe -14 euros and four courses including wine,water and coffee and an appetiser! Amazing.Prices are low, coffee for Brad and myself along the way was two euros.
Anyway it is time to sleep so greetings to you all. I hope all is well in NZ. Miss you but having fun.

Shanghai visit and arrival into London

What  a revelation  today has been. Shanghai is a modern and glamorous city but a city of great contrasts too-old heritage sites and street markets  with traditional  livelihoods sit side by side with the modern skyscrapers and commercial buildings the equal of any city anywhere. The people have been so friendly and helpful,we only had to stop to check a map and someone would ask if we were needing help-on the trains,subway and the city it was the same- courtesy and helpfulness abound in this city.
Our first adventure was catching the Maglev fast metro into the city from the airport-437 km's so 19 miles passed in under eight minutes-awesome trip as the scenery flashed  passed there was a tantilising mix of the city of contrasts -old run down housing and modern housing sit side by side-waterways and farming  evident and the 'Venice of Asia'  earned its name. We had to transfer from the Maglev onto the metro-with the help of a young man to make our way to the Yu gardens in the old part of the city.

The gardens are beautiful and a haven for sightseeing during a crowded day.
The second adventure took another turn but began with a kindness.....
Before we actually arrived  at the gardens we met two charming chinese girls who approached us to help and take their photos at the exit to the metro.We ended up talking and they invited us to visit the traditional tea house ceremony that they were on their way to. Such a treat followed. Down  old city streets until we came to the Old Tea House -we entered into another world.

 The world of tradition and tea met through an exploration of the culture of tea ceremonies ."Eric" translated the ceremony for us as we learned about the properties of tea and how it had been only the preserve of the kings and queens of China to partake of tea but now it is for the common  people to enjoy. Next week they celebrate with a special week to mark the tea ceremony.We tasted six different teas in a range of different servings and rituals to go with ways of making it. The tea is said to have life giving properties and each one had specific uses.
There was a tea buddha whose head had to be wet before the ceremony began along with a tea baby who completed the ceremony on a wet note-not sure how traditional that was!!!
Back on the street and our goodbyes said Brad and I headed off to the gardens-once again we  had a diversion as a man helped us to the entrance way and in doing so told us about his pearl farming business-the upshaot was we visited his shop and he showed us how the pearls were grown and cut open an oyster  shell to show us the pearls nestling inside. He also showed us the traditional steamed bun restaurant beloved by locals which we visited later. All very interesting to western eyes.
Our guide did know about our sister city relationship! He was also rather entertained by how small the city was in comparison to Shanghai!
The gardens did eventuate and well worth the visit. A place of calm and tranquility once you left the hustle and bustle of the bazzaar which led into the gardens. It was a Saturday so the locals were out in force - lots of family groups and young people enjoying feeding the goldfish and looking at the pavillions. We explored the walkways and enjoyed the magnolios in flower along with the rockery's and bonsai trees.

Our next adventure was dining at the dumpling house in the bazaar along with the locals.
Through the glass you could watch the creation of the dumplings,they were served in little bamboo steamers at the table along with chopsticks and some side dishes and soup-all delicious and very delicately flavoured -my soup had shredded egg and lemongrass with noodles.A beer tasted well with it.

After our lunch  we walked through the old city towards the river where we walked along the bund and took in some fresh air-not a great day,misty and cool but humid so could not see the tops of buildings which were shrouded in mist.No use going to the Pearl Tower for the view. The river was full of boats for river cruises and the walk was a popular place for strolling with your family.

 By now our legs were protesting somewhat so we took the hop on hop off tourist bus for a rest and headed across the river to see the modern commercial part of the city-beautifully groomed and spotless. Wealthy people in European cars were noticable here. Traffic not a huge problem yet but lots of honking horns and revving motors were testament to a city in a hurry.
We finished up with a visit to the People's Park but rain was setting in and the marriage market we had planned to see was well and truly over so it was just a glimpse but worth a return visit-someday .
The previous day had been excessively wet and the airport had been closed as the sky rained 'dogs and cats' according to our air hostess. We were lucky as it would not have been possible to do the exploring we did on the day.
Time had marched on-we had landed 8.00am Shanghai time and by my NZ time we were heading back to the airport abot 10.00 pm so shattered! We booked back in and took some time out-a meal and a sit down until we were advised of a change of departure gate-we were sitting in soliatry splendour and an anxious young man was trying to explain the situation.... oh well  we were saved by kindness right to the end.

We boarded for our trip  to London at 11.30pm Shanghai time so sleep claimed me even before the meal arrived! We had a stopover in Frankfurt and arrived in London at 7.30am. Seems like a week has passed rather than two days travelling.
Brad and I parted company at this point and I headed off on the tube only to have a rail outage and transfering onto buses etc until I finally arrived at Finsbury Park late and flustered as my phone battery was flat and no connection to Lou,s so it took awhile for us to track each other down.
It was a relaxing  and sociable day catching up with |Lou,exploring  her new flat and then having a meal with |Clare later-so nice to be here and sharing their news again. I slept the sleep of the dead last night so back to full spirits today.
Grey and cool in London yesterday and today so similar temperature to when I left home.I will go out for a walk soon and get ready for the next adventure.
My phone saga is another issue.Telecom and I are not friends. I spent an hour and a half at Auckland Aiurport trying to get my internet  and mobile capbility restored . No luck before I left but they assured me it would work when I arrived in London and I signed up to a computer as the email address was absolutely fine. Was it ? No! I am still locked out so if you hear nothing of me for the next five weeks blame Telecom.
I can get onto my google mail so you can try : robyne.selbie@core-ed.ac.nz
Look forward to some photos  and  hopefully some more blogs- not sure of connections  after issues to date.
My phone is  not working yet so will try to get this resolved before I leave London.My travel sim  no is:
372 54 774 513 and Brad's is :372 54 774 367-which does work.

Redondela to Pontevedra

21st June :the shortest or longest day depending where you are.
Cloudy and cool but no rain as we set off. This is a blessing as it rained heavily all night and we expected we would be kitted up for a dismal trip but maybe we will be lucky. No blisters for either of us so the vaseline has done the trick.

We walked back to the turn off and along through a pathway by the river,leaving sea views behind and entering the countryside. Our walk today was mainly along country roads and lanes leading through villages. Once again the roads are narrow and you have to be careful as the stone walls make the chances of being hit by traffic a real concern. We got very good at flattening ourselves against the stone walls.

We passed through pines,eucalyptus and lots of bracken in wooded areas too as we crossed a couple of passes dropping back down through one valley to another.The going was relatively easy on this leg of the trip. You are never far from a motorway or the train tracks on the camino but it is a small distraction and one to ignore as much as possible.
People here appear to have very small holdings and work close to the land. No fancy implements or vehicles here. Gardening is done by hand and tractors are very small and date back to the 40's.

Having a coffee break is a welcome break in the journey and we often had company from our fellow walkers at little cafes along the way.The owners are generous and they usually provide a small plate of croquettes or slices of empalada with your coffee.
Ponteveda is an old town based on the river. It boasts a historic bridge decorated with scallop shells as a symbol of St James and his preachings in this town. The old part of the town is very attractive and it was heaving with young people celebrating the end of the school year. Lots of good cheer evident but well behaved and no sign of over indulgence here- a lesson for NZ.

We walked around the historic walk suggested in our guidebook and checked out the impressive church fresco on the south wall. This was a story board telling the story  of the passion of Christ in stone.Amazing.

The sun was out and it was warm so we enjoyed sitting in the sun outside the Convent of San Francisco watching all the action before seeking out a meal. We found a restaurant overlooking the square so we watched the locals out enjoying the end of their working week. Whole families were out and the kids were playing soccer while parents socialised at the outside bars dotted around the square. No bad language here just people enjoying themselves.
We had plenty of entertainment as we ate our meal. I had a lovely meal of  chicken pie for starters,  fried fishes as a main and fried milk  or creme custard for dessert. We tried to have something local each night so we did explore the menu. Sadly vegetables seem difficult to find here in Spain but maybe it is seasonal and not a lot available yet.