Exploring the city of Zagreb

These two days have been fun.We have explored the city on foot and found many quirky and interesting things to do as well as sitting drinking coffee and watching the local sights unfold around us.
Firstly the day starts at the Dolac, or local market spread over several levels and selling all varieties of fresh fruit and vegetables,flowers and plants, cheeses and meats,fish and a variety of crafts.
You grab a table,order a coffee and buy your bread from another shop then sit outside and enjoy the ambience of the place.
The market traditionally has been the work of women and at the entrance to the market there is a bronze statue commemorating their contribution to feeding the city.
We took a bus up to the Mirogoj  Cemetery on the slopes of the Medvednica Mountain behind the city to view what is called the most beautiful example of a cemetery in all of Europe.It is a park, an art gallery and a place of rest for the city father's. The exterior is amazing,big arcades front the entrance to the cemetery which were built in 1897 and now covered in ivy and clothed from top to bottom in green making an impressive entrance way.
We had a great wander around this place, many statues and memorials too to the soldiers of major world wars and city father's.
Later we visited the Croatian Naive Art gallery and found the bronze sun at the heart of a solar system arranged around parts of the city to accurately reflect the dimensions of the solar system.
We had lunch at a local restaurant serving local dishes.We tried the sour cream and clotted cheese dish,famous here and there is lots of it sold at the market, which is served with paprika and rocket and home made bread.This was a taste treat and great service.
Later we found the statue of Pats and took our photos alongside him as he gazed over the city from the old part of the town.
We were too late to get tickets to the concert tonight it was booked out but we did go to the Museum of Broken Relationships which was the most quirky place of all.Amazing stories told of loss,heartbreak,grief in all guises and yet funny and agonizingly real.Loved the artifacts chosen to tell their stories too,like the toaster that a spouse took so the other would not be able to make toast!!!
We visited a sculpture museum of one of the leading Croatian sculptures in his home,so a living museum of his work.Most impressive works on show there.
Later we ate at a wonderful  fish restaurant where I tried a raw fish pate and scampi risotto.Great food and service here.
Today we had an explore of the botanic gardens and some of the other buildings of note before setting off to the railway station for our trip to Slovenia.

Photographs of Zagreb

Out and about in Zagreb on a warm and sunny day.

Plitvice National Park

Today was an early start.We had to walk to the bus station and catch the bus to Plitvice Lakes at 8.30am and find some breakfast on the way. The day was particularly notable because it was raining,the first time since leaving home so our raincoats got an airing.
The bus trip takes about two and a half hours through quite rural countryside.Lots of forest and some rivers and wetlands along the way.Farming is the way of life in this area,some quite small and a number of abandoned houses in the villages.We actually saw a small flock of sheep,a couple of cows and some goats.
Antway the arrival time was eleven and we arrived on time.Lots of tour groups gathering and buying up raincoats because of the rain.However the rain was shortlived and we were able to revert to our shorts and a  t-shirt as we walked around the waterfalls on wooden walkways with large numbers of sightseers cramming the way.
The waterfalls had been replenished by the overnight rain so they were quite spectacular.I have to say as New Zealanders we have to have something pretty amazing to match our own parks.
We walked up and around the smaller lakes brimming with fish until we came to a larger lake where you catch a boat and ride along to the end of the lake where you transfer to a bus which returns you to your exit gate or you can go further up the lake system.The colours of the water are spectacular.It is karst country,Colin will know all about this and the water forms through tufa  to create this rich blue shade. Very striking against the green foliage.
Bird and animals were unseen by us but brown bears,wolves and lynx are present along with many butterflies and species plants native to Croatia.
Eventually we arrived back to where we would catch the bus back to Zagreb.Time for an ice cream and some lunch before heading back to the city.
We spent a few hours glamming up before walking into the old town to listen to a concert near St Catherine. It was in a museum outdoor courtyard so we were sitting under the stars.
It was stunning.The first half was a formal choir singing classical music,spine tingling in the harmony and chorus followed by another choir who sang and played a range of classical folk music.Very melodic and lively but great tempo and in harmony.Magic music.
The night was spoiled by me losing Brad's purse.We think it was picked out of my bag,no idea how but we retraced our steps and could not find anything so we treked around looking for the police station which we eventually found.We have to go back tomorrow!
The night was late so we ended up getting pizza at the railway station and eating in our room.
Such a shame as we had had a memorable day apart from the purse mystery.

Appealing Zagreb

We arrived before six this morning and emerged out onto the station without any real idea of our location or where the hotel was in relation to us but a quick inquiry of a nearby taxi driver who told us our hotel was about 500 metres along the road in front of us.
We found our way without difficulty to the Arcotal Hotel and found we could not check into until 2.00 pm but they were happy to store our bags for us until we could check in. This was a relief so we were able to head off into town and explore the place before most people were up!!!
Our first impressions were very favourable. It is very European in its appearance but it has its own charm and sense of grandure befitting such an old city.
We wandered around with a map the hotel gave us and found the market which was a very large one with a huge range of very fresh produce, fish,meat,crafts,plants and anything else you expect at a market. We enjoyed looking around here and we bought some bread and had a coffee for our breakfast and ate it at a little cafe.
Later we wandered up and down little streets bordered by eating places and cafes for just a drink or coffee.It is a vibrant and busy place.
I think we will enjoy this place.Lots of gardens with roses and hydrangeas, green spaces and bigger parks to explore during our three days here.
We managed to fill in our time quite easily before heading off to the bus station to get our tickets to go to Lake Piltvce tomorrow. By the time we had done this the hotel beckoned and we were able to check in and have a shower and a break from the heat. Thirty degrees again today so it is good to have a siesta time.
Tonight we plan to go to a free concert featuring Mozart and classical music in a local church.

Farewell to Split

Our last day here looms.We have had such a nice stay here in Split, such a vibrant place and the place is so easy to get around.Once you work out the location of the different gates it is easy to find your way around the labyrinth of little streets with courtyards running off them and new delights to uncover.
Music is big here with lots of live performances in the squares and courtyards so you come across some delightful treats to sit and listen to.
Lots of cafes and a variety of fast foods Croatian style, well lots of pizza and bread in various forms.
We decided to put our bags into the luggage lockers at the railway station once we packed up our room first thing and then visit the nearby towns of Trogir and Solin. 
The bus was easy to find and we were soon wandering around another very ancient town on an island connected by bridges to the mainland.
Trogir has a history going back, 2,300 years with examples of Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque and Renaissance architecture along with more modern shop fronts and restored buildings.It was founded in the 3rd Century by Greek settlers from the nearby island of Vis and in those times it was the most important town in the region.
The Dukes Palace and the Cathedral were the most important buildings, so much so it was declared a World Heritage Site in 1997.
The Romans had had a big influence here and the churches were very impressive although we did not go inside them we could see the affluence  from which they were created centuries ago.
We did sit in the Loggia in the centre of town and listen to a group of Croatian singers serenading the crowd for money and CD sales.They were pretty impressive.
Tourists are everywhere here and the little alleyways are crammed with shopping distractions and local gifts and produce.
We left there about 11.30 am and took the bus to Solin where we wanted to see (well I think I wanted to see) the old Roman town ruins of Salonia.
We were unlucky in that our bus only took us to the foot of the town and we had rather a walk up the hill to find the ruined town.
It was worth it though.An extensive site covering the hillside with an ampitheatre, the forum,a palace  and other features to be expected in such a find.
The interesting thing about this place was it was the birthplace where Emperor Diocletian grew up.It was his palace we were living within the was of in Split.
It was once the largest Roman town in this part of the Adriatic.It is known as 'Croatia's Pompeii'.
We had a good scramble around the hillside ( photos later) in fairly hot windy conditions so we were grateful to catch a bus back to Split from outside the gates of the excavations.
We had some lunch at a old square in Split and then sat in the park under the trees for awhile.
We were out of our room and the train did not depart until 9.43 pm so a bit of time people watching at the park and then down on the Riva where people promenade as the night goes on. You can watch all the cruise boats and sunset cruise boats coming and going and enjoy the view out over the sea to the islands offshore.
We had a cold drink sitting under the shades before heading up to the Perstila for dinner.We thought there would be live music to listen to from the local cafe who provides a different entertainment each night but we were too early so it was off to the train to collect our bags and see what a sleeper on Croatian Rail would offer.
We were pleasantly surprised by the cleanliness of the sleeping berth.Every where we have been has been very clean I have to say.
A good bunk bed so I climbed aloft as the train left the platform and enjoyed a surprisingly good night sleep.There were a few stops along the way but we drew into Zagreb on the dot of 5.50am feeling quite refreshed.
How we filled in our day is the next episode.....

Another day in Paradise...

What a beautiful day to wake up to.Sunshine beckons so out to explore the old city after eating breakfast and sorting out our travel to one of the islands tomorrow.I liked the idea of a day cruise to Brac on a catamaran with lunch served and a bus trip of the island but there is not one now until Tuesday and we will be away by then so we will hop on a ferry and explore as much as we can buy bus and legs eleven!

We were lucky to find some of the old iconic sites mentioned in our guide book but half the fun is wandering down the narrow streets and coming across things that hide out in small places.Lots of squares and public spaces food outlets of every description and for every event.No wonder Rick Stein was a fan.
We had a good look around before siesta time during the heat of the day.Over thirty degrees today so nice to go back to air conditioning and a rest before setting out to climb Mt Marjam at the far end of the town. The road leads to a set of steps which we climbed up for ten minutes to the first lookout and then a bit longer until we came to the first of the churches and then onto an area with playgrounds and the zoo. Not our top choice.
This area has a lot of very old churches going back to the thirteenth century and pilgrims made their way down the headland from the top of the mountain.Hardy souls they were.They did not take the soft option like us.
Mt Marjam covers quite a  large area and we thought we could get to the swimming beach via this walkway but not so.Back down the steps and around the boat Harbour to find a  place I could swim.It was a bit stony underneath the feet but the water was refreshing and I enjoyed the swim.
We walked back to the Fife restaurant which has a great reputation here and had been recommended to us by several people.It was full so we joined the queue and eventually got seated for what we thought was going to be a top choice.I have to say it was a bit of a let down.We have been spoiled by our meals to date.It was okay but not memorable.Tbe atmosphere was cheerful and we sat outside overlooking the Riva or promenade.
On the way home we sat and listened to a live band on the Riva playing Pink Floyd hits and later along the way back to our room we came across a magical group like the Ten Tenors singing outside the forum just by our rooms.We stood in the crowd and soaked up the sounds of tenor voices in harmony.Magic.

Split and the Diocletian's Palace

What a cool place to arrive into.No real expectations apart from those Rick Stein raised on his cooking show but even better in person.

Our bus trip to get here was uneventful but we must have visited every place between Rijeka and Split!!!We got in about two o'clock and easily found our way into the old town and our booking agent who gave us the keys to our room and made us welcome.Four keys to get from the street to the room so we are pretty safe and sound.

Our room has a kitchen on the same floor that we can use and it is a stones throw from the Silver Gate where we entered the old town or Diocletian's Palace so we are well placed to explore the place.
We have had a walk around by now and everything is accessible and interesting.
We wandered along to the railway station and booked our tickets on the overnight train to Zagreb later in the week and then walked along to find the closest beach for swimming. We passed all the cruise liners and ferry services to off shore islands on the way so maybe we will take a cruise out to one tomorrow.
Our day finished with a meal at a local restaurant where I tried the Istrian beef,a premium cut with potatoes.Very tender.
This morning after a leisurely start the week we went to the market to buy fresh fruit and the konzum for yogurt to make breakfast before heading out to the square to watch the Diocletian prince welcome us to the town during the changing of the guard.Quite a ceremony amongst large numbers of tourists sweating it out in the sun.

Hanging out in Zadar

Today was a lovely rest day.A lie in. A walk along narrow flagged streets to the local market to see what was on offer.Everything it turns out so we explored the whole thing.I love these markets they are so much a showcase of local crafts ,produce and lifestyle.
We were invited to taste a variety of things and ended up buying some green fresh figs for our breakfast.
Then it was back to the Peoples' Square close by our apartment for a coffee and a stint of  people watching before going back and having breakfast in our little kitchen.
Time for siesta until we went walking after two.This time we explored beyond the old city walls and a shaded garden retreat which was beautifully restored and offered a haven during the heat of the day.We watched a band set up for a live performance that night nearby where Pet Bunana the restaurant we were planning to eat at later so we figured we would be able to listen in while we dined. We did for awhile as they tuned up but then the sound disappeared so we think they had a secret venue,never mind we arrived back to find a great local band playing in the People's Suarez so we sat in the square and listened to them while other fans watched the soccer between Portugal and Poland.A real hive of activity out there at ten pm.
I have distracted myself. I started to say we were on our way to find a good swimming spot along the coastline from the old town.A bit of a walk but lovely conditions and very soon found a beach by lifeguards and nets for volleyball and the like so took a chance and headed into the water.
Bliss! So warm and very clear water.I could have spent the afternoon hanging out there but it was all to soon time to head home for a late lunch in the flat and a time to write read and relax for awhile.
Before tea we went for another walk around the part of the old town we had not seen,namely the Tower of Shame.We took a photo looking suitably repentant!
Off to dinner at Pet Bunana and tonight I had the Octopus Salad,a local speciality and delicious, plus a salad to keep up the greens.I finished off with a marsachina, a local speciality made of a variety of cherry.Very moist to finish up a meal with.I think that is a new favourite.
Brad had the turkey and almond dish I had last night stuffed with fig jam and vegetables.
A great place to dine and I can recommend it to anyone lucky enough to come to Zadar.
Packing up time now,we are off to Split tomorrow by bus so onwards and upwards.....

Travel day. Lovran to Zadar.

Another beautiful day on the Adriatic coast as we set off to catch the local bus to Rijeka where the main bus station is sited.Lovren is a lovely residential town with holiday makers out in force.
Our hotel was comfortable but not up to the same luxury as a Buzet but friendly people and very helpful.This has been a feature everywhere we go.

Some beautiful old houses line the road as we travel along the coast.Pleasure boats and beach entertainment suggest a summer playground for mostly European visitors.Lots of German and Italian accents.We did meet a Slovanian couple ,the man was wearing an All Black t-shirt so we stopped and spoke to them.He is a big fan of our team!
We arrived in Rijeka with a couple of hours to explore the old town so we stored our bags and headed out to see the town which is noted for transportation to other parts but it does have some interesting buildings with evidence of rebuilding going on in the old centre. EU money at work here.
We got a map from the information centre and two hours saw most of the historic places of note. Most were religious sites so not neccessary to go inside,just interesting the architecture. The photos will have to come later as I did not have my tablet with me.
I have to say we avoided too many steps today as muscles are sore from our walking so the bus trip will be a welcome respite.

12.30 pm we headed off on our bus to Zadar. It is a five and a half hour trip and someway along the way a text back from our hostess suggested they did not expect us until tomorrow!!! Anyway she was happy for us to come and stay two nights and we were pleased too as Zadar is a neat place. It was voted European best place to visit 2016 so it all worked out just fine.
The bus trip was fine,a very comfortable air conditioned bus with adjustable seats fit for a snooze.The countryside was very rugged for most of the way.Hard to know what could be grown in this part of the country.Scrub and white limestone like rocks dominate the hills here.The road weaves along a coastal route up hill and down dale at times, with spectacular views across to islands off shore which seem to be unpopulated in the first part of the trip anyway.
We passed through a number of coastal resorts and fishing villages and eventually arrived at Zadar where we were assailed by taxi drivers and apartmun offers.
Eventually we found we could catch a local bus to the old town where we were staying but a nicer taxi driver offered to take the two of us for 50 Kuna to the gates of the old town.You cannot drive into the town but we were very close to the centre so not a problem.You have to pay to have your cases taken on a bus so it was quicker and more comfortable to get to our destination by car.
Our hostess was waiting for us at our apartment and she made us very welcome and gave us a local map and the name of a place to dine.
The apartment is very central,basic but clean and everything in it we needed.So we are delighted to be here and after unpacking we set off to explore the sights she had told us about like the market which has shut up by the time we arrived but back tomorrow.
We walked through the old part of the town with the Roman forum remains and onto the area to hear the sea organ play at sunset.It was a spectacular sunset and the sea organ is evocative under balmy skies.In the same area is a solar clock installation so we stayed to see the show before heading off for dinner at Pet Burran which means five wells in Croatian.
We had a delicious meal of local cuisine.I had a turkey breast coated in slivered almonds and stuffed with fig and a local vegetable with a fresh salad of local vegetables and Brad had a beef dish in a sweet and sour sauce from local recipes.
It was after eleven when we got back to our apartment but stalls were only just shutting up.It is a long day for the tourist dollar in these parts.
It was a nice feeling to nod off knowing we were staying in one place the following day.

Standing on top of Istria....

Today was a highlight I have to admit.We debated if we could do the full day walk today but the weather was cooler and the big walk yesterday gave us confidence we could manage the challenge of such a climb so we made the decision just before leaving the hotel.
Our driver collected us at nine and we set off to Poklon about 45 minutes away.Some of the trip was on toll roads and we drove through National Parkland to Ucka first and then further up the mountain we arrived at Poklon.
We were struck by the views immediately.Kvarner Bay lay out in front of us,blue as blue dotted with islands ad far as the eye could see.Rijeka was spread not below us,much bigger than I imagined.
Poklon is named after the first tribes but it was a pilgrimage site too for the overland route to the shrine so there is a large cross recognizing their faith, as in subsequent years during the wars, access was impossible and Poklon was where they could see the shrine so they worshipped there.
We headed off  to climb Vojak, the highest  mountain in the Ucka National Park, in fact the highest in Croatia.  From here (I never said we climbed from the bottom!) Poklon is about 900 meters above sea level and we climbed to 1,401 metres to teach the summit of Vojak.
The trail was through some lovely beech forest and we had a few hit and misses with the directions we were given but we followed the road upwards  and eventually the structures on top of the peak came into sight.These were telecommunication type structures but we kept walking until we got to the climbing tower and observation point built by Austrian Hungarian interests,now restored by the local community with a shop and viewing tower.Spectacular views all over Istria.
We spent a bit of time here and Brad's great nephews have bibs featuring local butterflies.Little will they know how hard she worked to get them for them.
The butterflies are colorful and in large numbers.We have seen brilliant blue ones each day along with admirals and today there were lots of rich dark ones with red markings,almost clouds in places.
We might have seen a buzzard and a  jeweled salamander but they did not emerge for us. Lots of lizards however scuttling over the rocks when disturbed by our noisy appearance.
Our very first live farm animal we saw today as we approached Lovran was a goat with kids.Not sure where they store animals but plenty of meat on the menu.
Well atop the mountain we were but we had to get down and it was a long way down,rough tracks,hair raising at times but well signposted and plenty of markings on the rocks to guide us down 1386 meters until we hit the coastal town of Lovran. Much of the track was through the bush on well formed bush tracks but then it would change to rocky steps, perpendicular at times and every step had to be carefully placed to avoid an accident.
One excitement was the wild flowers on the first part of the track.There were lots of familiar ones but in small alpine sizing such as geraniums, but the excitement was the low growing  rose like a spinossa or Scots rose.So pretty and vigorous with a single white flower.Then further down the mountain there were roses like our briar rose growing wild along the pathway.A photo stop was required to show rose lovers back home.
Several hours had passed and we still had two hours to go at our lunch stop according to the sign but I am afraid it took us much more than that. Eight hours in total.Not bad for the old girls!!!
At one stage I was in sight of the town and we had a long trail of steps to climb down.They stretched out as far as you could see and I was seriously wondering if we would make it.Brad was finding it tough so we had a stop and some sustenance which was just enough to get us down the last stretch to the town.
What a relief to emerge onto the main street and find our hotel was right there.
High fives all round.We had done it but we both have decided this is the last effort at this degree of difficulty.
It is such a pleasant little town to wander around.The night was warm and dinner was needed after our revival time so we found a beach side place to dine and then ate a ice cream sundae at one of those fancy parlors they have here.We have been promising ourselves one since we arrived and today we earned it!!!!