Tokyo on the homeward leg

Arrived into Haneda Airport at about six o'clock British time but one thirty their time and waited a long time for luggage to come through,then I had to open my suitcases for customs- must have looked suspicious!
Eventually we emerged and I located the money machine and the information desk and armed myself on what was needed to get me to the hotel . Why did I think Anthony had given me a Google map of the area?
I caught the monorail to Hamasaki Station ,450 yen and then caught a taxi to the hotel(750 yen) because not sure enough of remembering the map Tony showed me when I booked . Given the heat a good decision although it was within walking distance.

I had a sleep in my very comfortable air conditioned room before going out for a walk around the hotel district . It is located in Manito area with the World Trade Centre and the Zoioi Temple nearby . Also the Tokyo Tower which is their answer to the Eiffel Tower.

The temple was impressive and the contrast between the modern high rises and the traditional buildings is interesting . Cicadas are in full cry here too , competing with the noise of traffic from downtown city bound traffic.
I explored the temple grounds and Shiba Park nearby until the heat drove me back to the hotel for an evening meal,a pity as the gardens are well laid out and the trees are a feature with their shaping and many  shades of green . Lots of lovely little local shops selling noodles and sushi around this area  but they seem to be full of business men in dark trousers and short sleeved shirts so maybe best to stick to hotel tonight.

 

 

Packing up ready for departure.....

You could not believe the mess I have made in my time here!!!It took three of us all day to get to this stage. I thought I travelled light....
Kensal,Lou and I have spent Saturday getting the flat packed up ready for the big move on Friday.
I am put off ever moving. First Jo and now Lou it is a big job so think I will stay put at Marion Street for ever.
It has been so warm and muggy today after a pretty heavy rain this morning.
Had a trial pack yesterday and a re run this afternoon . Not sure how I have acquired more stuff but I have and so I will have to manage the transfer and hope I am under my luggage allowance.

To Rhodos and home......

Another beautiful day in Paradise. As I pull the curtains the sun is streaming in and the cicadas are in full cry, a chorus which does not let up all day. We ate our usual breakfast outside on the deck enjoying the views of Peraklos Castle standing guard on the headland. It was the last stand of the Knights Templar on Rhodos. We have been promising ourselves to climb it before we left Haraki so tonight it will have to be.
Our free bus tour to Rhodos was arriving at nine thirty so it was a bit of a dilemma, the beach or the bus trip!
We took a chance on the bus and decided to come back early if it was too hot and busy with people.
We were driven right into the old town area with easy access into the fortifications so we did manage to fill in our three hours exploring the old city and having lunch in the market place.
An amazing place to wander at will and take in the market streets and bazaars, so much sound and colour to attract you into the tiny streets and narrow walkways in between the city walls.
One of the seven wonders of the world once guarded this city and protected the populace from the enemy in centuries past. Colossus was huge and stood astride the  Harbour entrance for hundreds of years until he was brought down by an earthquake and is now seen in name only.
We made our way through the fortress walls and past the tower of the Palace gates of the Grand Master . The walled city was built by the Knights of St John and the impressive moat and castle walls are testament to the will and might of the order . What work went into these medieval castles and fortifications.Rhodos is strategically placed at the tip of the island and controls the shipping channels towards Turkey and the other Greek Islands
The old town is a warren of old cobbled streets, a paradise for souvenir shoppers and crafts people.  We did acquire a bag or two(who could resist such a bargain) before taking refuge in the shade for lunch.
Our guide took us back to the bus about three and once we got back to Haraki it was down to the beach for a lovely swim followed by a climb up the castle ruins just as the sun was setting over the hills surrounding the valley. Perfect timing but a bit of a challenge as the rocks were loose and we spent some time scrambling around the goat tracks finding our way up to the top of the walls. It was worth it when we emerged at the top-we could see down the coast and across the river flats.
We celebrated our climbing feat with a beer and another perfect evening at our favourite restaurant on the waterfront. The end of another lovely day.

Another day in Paradise

Another lazy day lying on Aganthi Beach was planned for Sunday. Hot and sunny and not a sign of wind indicated a perfect day in Paradise. We were up a little later than usual and enjoyed a breakfast on our deck before heading away to laze the day away.
We spent all day there and enjoyed every minute,the water is so warm and buoyant, it is easy to just float around keeping your head above water and enjoying all the beach life unfolding around you . The temperatures got to 35 degrees, hot but not as bad as Symi on 45 degrees  the day we were there.
We completed our day with another fine meal at our friend Kristos's restaurant and a coffee at the bar on the way home so we could use the Internet to catch up on news.
Our next adventure was to Lindos,a   heritage town about twenty miles down the coast and highly recommended  by travel books because of the Roman acropolis ruins and heritage town winding up and  around the hillside fortress.
We hired a car for the day and arrived earlier to beat the sun as it was a steep climb up to the fortress and very exposed once you came out onto the top. Well worth it though as the ruins were fascinating and the view beautiful. We climbed up through the little cobbled streets,through the donkey poo and past little craft shops vying for the tourist dollar until we came to the entrance gate , paid our money and walked through the walls of the old castle also on the site.
We could have paid five dollars and arrived on a donkey!!!!
After exploring the site we climbed back down to the town and rewarded ourselves with lovely fresh orange juice served under the shady grape vines and shaded from the heat of the day. Crowds were building so we escaped back to the car and drove down the coast for lunch . Our real destination was a place called Prasonissia where the Aegean Ocean and the Mediterranean lapped either side of the  sandy isthmus separating an island from the mainland. We paddled in both waters and watched the kite surfers etc enjoying the breeze before travelling to Sania,  the home of honey and back to our beach for a swim . A great day out.

Symi Island

The bus collected us up before seven and away we went to catch the ferry in Rhodos for our sea excursion to another Greek Island.
This was an adventure.  The  Mclaughlan's are not known for their seat legs so anticipating a two hour trip at sea required  a certain mindset to approach the day with.
We need not have worried as the water was calm and the cruise was marvellous - we sat out in the sun on the top deck amidst the ocean breezes and enjoyed the views of the Turkish coastline, other small islands and even a dolphin or two approached our vessel.
We had heard that this was a very beautiful island to visit and we were not disappointed.
It was a gorgeous place, houses were perched on the edge of the steep hills, colorful and distinctive with their symmetrical shapes and steep pathways leading up and down to the beachfront.
It is said that the women of Symi had the most shapely legs in Greece because of their daily climb for food and other necessities . The houses also looked as if they have been thrown randomly at the hillside and indeed legend had it that a giant's hand did throw them against the hills,I have forgotten why but guess the story changes with the telling.
The bay is packed with boats of every description,those for earning a living from traditional practices such as sponge harvesting are now very few but pleasure craft and luxury liners are to the fore . Every eating place was doing a roaring trade . Our guide says this all changes in winter months and the population is a fraction of the previous times when sponge diving was their commercial livelihood and some fishing was also important.This is why all the houses face the sea , not for aesthetics but for watching out for loved ones coming in from the sea.
The horizon is dominated by another impressive Knights Temple ruined castle and over three hundred churches belong on this island.
We were taken to see the sponge shop and given a description of the 'best practice' of preparing the sponges for the market . These days only five varieties may be harvested over a two year cycle because the beds became depleted . The one that took my fancy was called Elephant Ears and the people working outside in the sun used them as a hat soaked with cold water to keep them cool. It resembled a coolie hat shape but nobody would be seen dead in it today!
Olive oil was big here too with lovely body lotions and creams available in a myriad of shops. The commercial heart was alive and well. Forget stories of Greece as a basket case,only some places are suffering. During the summer there is  full employment in these islands.
We had another three course traditional meal at lunch time which set us up for about twenty four hours I think. 
We did some shopping in our free time and then it was back on board for the rest of our cruise around the island with  a stopover in a sheltered little bay to visit an impressive church. Lou and I were put off by the throng of keen folks so we visited a little bakery and bought apple pies for our tea,this was on the guides recommendation no less . Right he was, delicious fare.
We loved our day on the water but we were ready for an early night after our day out.It must have been the large dose of sea air.

Beach,sunshine and sightseeing...

Our first day on  Rhodes Island was spent hanging out on the beach with the rest of the sun lovers. It was a beautiful spot about 500 metres from our apartment and set in a secluded bay laid out with cafes and sun loungers to escape the ravages of the sun at mid-day.

We hired a lounger and a sun umbrella for four euros a day in the front row and read, swam and sunbathed rather  cautiously as it was so hot but we escaped unscathed and built up a good tan over our week in the sun.
Food is always at hand,there were three cafes on the beach so we were never short of a snack or a drink when required and very few distractions from people selling stuff so it was quite civilized.
We had to go into town later in the afternoon to meet our holiday representative at a local cafe to get the sales talk but we did sign up for a couple of trips.
The first one we did took us all around the Island of Rhodes in a very comfortable air conditioned bus with a guide who gave us a great insight into the island life and plenty of detail about the history and culture of the places we visited.
Our first stop was at Butterfly Mountain,a scenic reserve located in the central part of the island . Most of the area is now closed to the public so they can protect the species but a beautiful place st amongst trees and a river ran through the valley we were in. We tried very hard to catch a photo of  a butterfly in flight but very elusive they were.  It was set in a delightful dell with a waterfall and a dam, along with a cafe of course and umpteen buses parked outside.  This was rare to see such greenery on the island.
Our next stop was Kamiros, one of the three ancient acropolis built by the Romans conquerors on Rhodes . It sits in a strategic location high above the sea so Goddess Athena and daughter of Zeus can protect her people from invasion . The acropolis is built on three levels and we were able to wander at will through the public meeting spaces, the houses and the bath house were on the different levels . Much of  the restoration work is underway but only a small area has yet been uncovered by archeologists, in fact about a third of the total town.  Amazing to walk in such a place and think about life as it was here in Roman times and marvel at their ability to provide drainage, water for bathing, a democratic meeting place- men only of course but it was advanced politics of its era.
We then went wine tasting up in the hills at a cellar set into  a cave. This is a big wine growing region on the island and most vines grow without staking here so it took us awhile to realize it was vineyards we were passing.
We had four wines to taste, ranging from sweet red, a dry red a white and a dessert wine which was probably the best of them all. We had lunch nearby so we enjoyed a three course meal of local delicacies before completing our tour of the island. We stopped at various high spots for photos and honey tasting before arriving back at our apartment in time to go swimming at the pool in a nearby apartment which allowed us to swim there at any time.

Greece here we come!!!

A very early start a with us tomorrow. We have to be at Gatwick by seven so decided to get a taxi there,such a trouble free trip compared to tube and trains.,we still had to leave by 5.30 am!
We were flying on an Olympic holiday deal so once we were at the airport they process you and take responsibility from there  onwards, they check your luggage in so no issues around how much you can get in your carry on  case!
The flight was three hours 36 minutes, on time and uneventful so arrived into a brilliant sunny day ready for our trip to Haraki,a small beach resort about an hour from the airport.
Our home for the next week is an apartment with self catering facilities and an outdoor deck overlooking the ruins of Peraklos Castle,the last strong hold of the Knights Temple which we finally climbed on our final night . At night it is lit up and looks most impressive.
We arrived about 40 pm and immediately set off for the beach, a bit of a walk along a local road but the treat once you arrived was well worth it . Deep sand and gleaming water,as blue as described but even better. We could not wait for our swim in the Agean Sea and it lived up to our expectations . We hung out there until after seven before walking into the Haraki village nearby for a Greek  meal and some breakfast provisions.
It was our lucky night because we found a restaurant serving traditional Greek food, not British 'home away from home ' meals but the real deal so we ate there every night . The food was delicious and Costos looked after us well plus his food was not expensive . I had moussaka and Lou the meatballs.

Charing adventure

Caught the train down to Charing mid morning on a balmy English day, I cannot believe the weather we have had this year,so unlike most summers I have spent here.
Brad met me at the station and we walked back through the village . A quintessential English village with a large church and village green and a high street featuring local shops and old houses opening onto the street . Doors so low even I need to duck my head and a range of buildings reflecting the history of the town.
Willow Cottage was such a house . The house is at the end of the row of similar cottages and it has a whitewashed exterior with blackened beams and low ceilings . It was like entering a dolls house for adults with tiny furniture to match the low ceilings and winding staircase to reach the bedrooms . Charming.
Cynthia has lived here for thirty plus years and done a lot of renovations to the interior as well as producing a delightful garden to sit in and enjoy the day.
We did quite a lot of walking around the village the day I arrived,up to the windmill on the hill overlooking the North Downs,through farmlands of wheat and broad beans!
Our big walk to Canterbury via the Pilgrims Way was planned ages ago but we had to postpone as it promised to be the hottest day of the Year . Thirty four degrees is not ideal for walking a long distance so we adjusted our plans and decided to get up early and walk to Wye on the North Downs walkway,about three and a half hours away and more suitable to the conditions.
A pleasant walk through rural England and we had the place to ourselves at seven o'clock when we set off across the downs.
We wi
We will have to come back next year to try again for Canterbury.
We caught the train back to Charing in time for lunch and relaxed in the garden until I caught the train back to London to meet Nick and Els for a picnic in the park opera in Cheswick Park . The Pirates of Penzance would you believe . Jim would have loved it.

London sojourn

Had a cool trip back into London on Friday,13 degrees in London compared to 30 in Sofia so a little adjusting to do.
It was great to meet up with the girls and have a catch up over a meal , I made them a Shopska salad  and served it with a nice Bulgarian pepper and tomato paste served on pita bread.
I spent a couple of days catching up on washing and relaxing from our non stop lifestyle to date . It was nice to just do some domestic chores for a change . Did I really say that!
Claire invited us up for dinner on Saturday evening and we sat out in the garden until quite late in balmy conditions and then enjoyed one of Claire signature dishes of roast NZ lamb and a salad of new peas and cooked lettuce followed by a yummy dessert of frozen berries served with a white chocolate sauce . Very spoilt we were .
I went garden nursery shopping with her on Sunday morning and then did some replanting and potting up so the outdoor area looks revitalized for the summer.
Lou and I did some packing and sorting stuff ready for her move so a pleasant time in the local area.
I did go into London to visit the Summer Art Exhibition at the Royal Academy and the National Portrait Gallery where I saw the newly acquired self portrait of Van Dyke and the current 2014 Portrait exhibition which I found quite compelling,more so than the Summer Exhibition,interesting as that was. I thought the design work and models really interesting and enjoyed some of the sculptures this year.
I went to the Caulfield Gallery and Somerset House as well as some of the iconic parts of the city such as Picadilly Circus,Trafalgar Square,Holborn and Shaftsbury then  rode home via the suburbs on a double decker and on a balmy afternoon.
Claire Louise and I then went to an amazing play at Fins bury Park called Intimate Apparel, a play set in New York in 1905 involving the aspirations and trials of a negro seamstress who dreamed of love,marriage and a dress shop but life dealt a blow and we were witness to the destruction of her dreams,powerful stuff . Great cast and we thoroughly enjoyed our night at the theatre.
Wednesday was very hot again so could not face being inside so went to Regents Park and spent a lovely time in the rose gardens and sitting by the ponds . Quintessential British venue and sure enough the tummies were bared and bikinis came out!
My final evening in London was spent with Nick and Els who kindly hosted me at theirs and we went to an outdoor theatre performance of The Pirates of Penzance in the grounds of Cheswick House . They had a very fine picnic packed up so a lovely evening was rewarded by the promised thunderstorm avoiding us until the performance was over.
Nick drove me up to Euston Station to catch my train to Manchester for a stay with Kristen and family . What a mission driving through London even on a Saturday morning.

Thoughts on Bulgaria

Sitting in the hotel lobby all decked out in my walking boots,icebreaker top socks and support stocking ready for pick up from our pink palace. Why the sauna ?It is a very strict airline so take no chances   on luggage allowance but I must say it will be good to get through the checking system and change layers.
Our flight was delayed an hour but finally we are on board and ready for the flight home . Having a read back through my diary has brought back the stand out memories and adventures we have had.

The walking, tough at times but would I have missed it -no, it was within our capabilities so a bit of a challenge gives you a mental edge . The meadows with all the different varieties of wildflowers,some species so familiar to us,the mineral springs scattered along the trails , pristine water everywhere we went .
The food,always of a high standard. Lovely salads in particular and fresh fruit at stalls on the roadside, honey and compote sold at stands and stalls set up by the side of the road . The tasty tomatoes and peppers were in great supply and so fresh.
The people,always helpful and friendly,"no problems" was their response to any situation .Very honest too as displayed by the young girl who ran along the beach to return two lev to Brad when she dropped it.
Our exhilarating jeep ride across country,the evening cruise on the Black Sea,the Free Walking Tours led by personable young Bulgarians proud of their country and the amazing light and sound show in Velika Turnova,the Free Food Tour, such a lot to enjoy and remember. Did I mention the Devils Throat Cave adventure well that was a test of will power!
The sight of fields of Sunflowers as far as the eye could see . The rustic Pomak farmers with their home made wagons, pitch forks and old equipment used for generations and all the colorful gardens in pots and on windowsills.
So many states and stories of their place in society that our guides shared with us . It was so interesting to hear it all come to life through the stories they told. Bronze statues testified to their place in history.

The lovely weather we had and the inexpensive cost of travelling here made it a place to appreciate . Eating out is very reasonable and cups of coffee as little as two lev,watch out when we get back to London.

Finally the cities and the cultural diversity of the country told through the tours we did which unpacked the layers of this fascinating country and gave us an insight into the rich history of a country with many masters.

There was little downside....maybe the train crash so we did not get to ride on the train as planned, not getting to see the Valley of the Roses but celebrations were over so that may wait for another visit.
Thank you Bulgaria for a great adventure,we will have lots to remember and share with friends.

The Free Food Tour of Sofia

After lunch we waited in Krystal Park beside an gruesome statue of a much hated dictator, Stefano Stambolov who had been assassinated so the statue has a huge crack running through his head . No love there!
Kris, our guide met us and outlined the original and purpose of our tour known as 'Best Bites'. He was proud of his city and believed this to be the only free  food Tour in the world . New York has one too but you have to pay for the food you eat . This tour is free and happens every day at 2.00pm . The first 15 get on the tour.
Our first stop was the Supa Star soup restaurant which  specialized in freshly made healthy fast foods for on the go people . Here we sampled Tarator soup , a summer specialty in Bulgaria- in fact I am making it for tea tonight . It is made from yoghurt,cucumber,dill,garlic and walnuts and for cucumber haters to be avoided but the rest will enjoy.
Our next stop was a cafe known as The Sun Moon that served 32 different breads daily  with traditional dips and fare . We were given two dips to sample made from roasted red peppers,tomato and garlic,very delicious and I managed to get a bottle at duty free to take back with me. The other dip had eggplant added to it both were tasty and reflected the importance of tomatoes and peppers to Bulgarians,they are staple food and Kris told us of his childhood and the rituals he remembered of the gathering and storing of food for winter months.
He took us past the open air book market and the oldest market in Sofia where people bought in their produce for sale.
He showed us the 'squats' small windows from basement shops opening into the streets at knee hight to sell food and drink items,lots near bus stops,very cheap to rent. He also told us why the houses were built overhanging the streets, money of course as they are taxed on the ground floor footprint . Makes sense now,I thought it was some traditional practice.
Our next stop was a very attractive rustic looking restaurant , called- wait for it: Hadjidraganovite Izbi which served us three local cheeses on breads and served with a local herb drink made there and served in tiny thimble like bowls .It  reminded me of a liqueur.
Our group was a nice mix too so we enjoyed their company along the way,we even found a fellow Kiwi,a young woman from Cromwell would you believe.
To finish the tour we were given a sweet soaked in sugar syrup on a stick. Lucky us to find this tour.
We ended our day with a trip down the fashion street looking for something for Brad to wear to a wedding before eating El fresco in a garden bar beside the museum and it's old Roman  artifacts . History everywhere you look here .
For a town that started with a seedy look two days ago  it slowly revealed itself as a place of rich history and culture as you explored the historical sites and gained an appreciation of the diversity of culture and heritage in a little known part of the world.

Exploring the city of Sofia

Another lovely day awaits us .Hot and sunny so sunglasses,hats and sunscreen are required. Lots of noise last night from trams passing our room overlooking the street plus an air conditioner which failed to work meant we were a little slower to start than planned but we were away by nine and we retraced our steps from the tour and revisited some of the stops in more depth e.g we sat in on a service at the Sveta  Nedelya Church for part of the Thursday morning service which is said to ward off black magic and the evil eye!
This church is also a scene of early terrorism . History tells of a plot by communist sympathisers to assassinate the Bulgarian King in 1925 by packing the church dome with dynamite and detonating it during a funeral service of a local dignitary . The king escaped because he was late but 123 people died.
Another bizarre story is that of women who believed in the health giving properties of leaving your undies in a plastic bag for 24 hours inside the  chest said to contain the relics of one Stefano Uriah for a cure.
We visited the new subway station for another look at the Roman remains of the city discovered as they excavated the main line . The outcome has been to enclose part of the ruins in glass so you can look through at the old city,they even have an ancient  wooden bridge under glass . Later the will be an outdoor museum where you will be able to walk amongst the restoration . An imaginative project and a good example of my comment about a city built on layers.
In this area known as the Largo was also  a 4th Century iconic church known as Sveti St George, the oldest  in Sofia but encircled by modern communist built buildings at odds with the architecture of the church . The communists built a huge department store there to vital the west and locals called it Tzum or zoom because of the elevator inside,they were fascinated by the moving stairs . The other buildings housed government buildings and ministers but today rather ignored by the people.
Overlooking this whole area was a massive statue known as Sveta Sofia,not after the city but is said to denote holy wisdom . It was built on the site of Lenin's Statue torn down after the communists were overthrown.
Serdika was the original name of the city  established by the Thracians later overtaken by the Byzantine, Romans and most hated,the Ottoman Empire who ruled for five hundred years . Most Bulgarians speak sadly of this time in their history as they were basically slaves in their own country and treated appallingly by the Turks. They had a couple of periods of self rule as a kingdom and are proud of this part of their history.
Religion plays a big part in the story of the city as there are also mosques,a synagogue,a Catholic cathedral and Bulgarian Orthodox churches all close together . Lovely buildings which were closed today because of storm damage.
We wandered down the yellow brick road,a feature of the inner city which leads past the art gallery and other notable buildings as we made our way to the church,Aleksandur New ski . This church was built by the Russian and Baltic people to honor their dead,killed during the war of independence from the Ottoman Empire . A magnificent place,gleaming domes of gold caught the sunlight and made it an impressive sight at the end of the Avenue.
The monument to the unknown soldier is also close by and guarded by a huge lion statue,Bulgarians love lions! They have them everywhere there is a significant building.
We saw the ornate old bath house built for the people by the king as he thought if they smelled good they would feel good so he drew hot  water from the mineral springs to provide a great asset . This building is under restoration and will be amazing. There are hot mineral fountains nearby where people were constantly driving in and filling up containers while others took the waters as they believed they had medicinal properties and could cure illness of the digestive tract.
The morning passed quickly as we explored the local neighborhoods and market places and soon it was time for a break at Costa for coffee.

Destination Sofia

We had a very civilized departure today from our penultimate destination . How grand does that sound. Sad for us as we have had a marvelous two weeks exploring this country, so far exceeding our expectations and proving to be a neat holiday destination.

Breakfast, at our hotel sitting out in the sun, consisted of Bulgarian  yoghurt,very thick creamy texture used on fruit,savory dishes,or served on its own in a bowl,baniska - a delicious filo pastry dish with egg and cheese,a  delicacy in Bulgaria and an assortment of meats,cheeses,olives,tomatoes etc . plus fresh cherries,nectarines and apricots. The General Gurka hotel was a winner last year on Trip Adviser and we could see why,nothing was a problem for staff and we were looked after well.
We caught a cab to the bus stand where the express bus to Sofia departed from at 10.30 am and enjoyed an uneventful trip 3 hour to the capital city and our starting point two weeks earlier. The trickiest part was negotiating a taxi ride as the travel book said to be wary of unlicensed cab drivers setting outrageous fares and sure enough one approached us offering a bargain trip for 20 lev!We eventually got one for 5 lev so beware travellers it pays to negotiate.
Back to our pink palace,The Renaissance Hotel in central Sofia which suited us well location wise as it was in walking distance to the main historical sites we were keen to see as well as key shopping streets . Time for some retail therapy . Prices for clothes,shoes is very cheap compared to London but also they are quite trendy , stylish garments so fun to look no room to buy.

I have to say my initial impressions of Sofia were not favorable as it presents as a scruffy town with lots of graffiti on buildings which cry out for maintenance attention,oversized concrete housing estates- a legacy from the communist era and rough reading systems .
All this was surface stuff and I discovered this is a city of layers,layer upon layer of history and events which shaped the lives of its residents over centuries . Our walking tour was one of peace and tranquility,rural living undisturbed for centuries by comparison and highlighted by the rugged scenery and friendly people but now we were in a new reality,a city of contrasts of rebuilding for a future as a European city of culture applicant.
Our impressions we not helped as we came in by bus driving through the outer suburbs we were struck by the ugliest building sites and derelict housing on the outskirts of the city,traffic problems because of road works did not help and the lack of green spaces added to the impressions we had formed but it grew on us and by the time we left Sofia it had become a place of real potential and interest. There was lots to be positive about as it turned  out.
The city had been struck by massive storms the previous day, hailstones devastated the trees, shedding their leaves and creating a huge mess,damaging buildings and cars and creating a nightmare for workers who had to take shelter anywhere they could . There was an arm of task force green like people all over the place sweeping up huge piles of lives ready to be collected and removed by council trucks . One tourist we met showed us the storm on her phone video and it was ferocious - hailstones travelling along the streets like a river in flood taking all before it and the noise was furious . Quite an event.
Our first plan after unpacking was to find the Palace of Justice before six as there was another free walking tour available in Sofia so we wanted to be in the right place at the right time . We filled in time exploring Boulevard Vitosha, a shopping paradise in a car free street lined with shops,cafes etc and designed for promenading along . The Bulgarians do enjoy a good promenade later in the day,early evening when the temperatures cool down. Coffee was also on the plan and we chilled out in a place offering hookah pipes for inhaling...what...We did not find out .... curiouser and curiouser!
Dino was our tour guide for the tour and he was a character,a great communicator and it turned out he was an actor in the town and he did this as an extra to promote the city . These educated young Bulgarians all seem very proud of their country and want it to succeed as an EU country although several said their grandparents generation regret the demise of communism because of the security of living they once had was taken away, many older people feel overwhelmed at the cost of living and the changes they face living in their communities today.
Dino gave us a great lesson in the life and times of the city . Sofia is 7000 years old and it's history goes back to the Thracian people . More about this tomorrow.
After the tour we dined at the Happy Cafe, a local chain featuring a convivial atmosphere,good food and lots of happy customers a good note to end the day on.

Exploring the sights of Velika Turnova.

A great start to the day,sunshine and warm temperatures promised to make this a very pleasant day to explore the town.
We found out about a free tour run by students starting at 11.00 am so we decided to give it a go, how pleased we were as we met some nice people and our guide Alex was very knowledgeable and gave us a great introduction to Bulgarian history and specific events affecting this town and it's residents over the ages . It is one of the oldest towns as well as the capital and residence of the first Tzars of Bulgaria until along came the Romans who established Plovdiv as the capital due to its strategic position
We set off to find the Information Centre and meet up with the guide . I was wondering how we would survive the heat in the middle of the day but Alex had it well planned and assembled us in shady places and seemed to avoid the steep streets and flights of steps Brad and I struggled with on our tour.
This is a town of heights,houses tumble down the hillside and cobbled streets run upwards without any apparent plan,steps lead into nooks and crannies and signposts point in general directions rather than specific places,very confusing to the visitor.

Our tour led us around the key sights around the old town mentioned in the guide book especially the Tsarvets fortification which takes several hours to look around  and the Essen monument which we can see from our Window . We also saw the best place to watch the evening light and sound show which turned out to be spectacular . Amazing effects  of these lights playing across the old fortress ruins and telling the story of the history of the town through musical effects. They do not do it every night any longer because of the cost so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. We had to wait until after nine thirty but it was worth it.

We spent some time doing some shopping as the hand crafts were done by authentic craftspeople in a particular place Alex took us to so we bought some pottery and small things to stow away in our pockets.

Later in the day when it got a little cooler we walked up to the Tsarvets site,a massive fortress and castle dating back to the 2nd century . It is in a very strategic position and over the centuries its use had changed depending on who  the vanquished or victorious were . We climbed all over the site and enjoyed the views and historic significant of the place . Not a lot of information  in English  to help us but some visuals helped.
Dinner and bed followed . Our day had been very active and it was nice to relax over a pleasant meal of salads and pita bread at our favorite restaurant.

Velika Turnova here we come!

Up at 5.30 am this morning to catch the earliest bus out of Sozopol in order to catch the connecting bus from Burgas to Velika Turnova,apparently there is only one a day so we can not miss it. Fortune shone on us and we arrived at West Station in time to catch the bus . Another anxious moment as we realized other traveller's had tickets booked but we were too late as the ticket office closed just as we arrived . It was a very small bus so there was some nervous  moments as we waited to see if there was room for us . Every seat was taken by the time we got on so we were lucky . Bad luck for those further up the line who wanted a ride,they were ignored and left to wait another day.
We had one stop at Stiven for a coffee and rest rooms so not like our earlier bus trip where stops were frequent and sociable!

We had an interesting trip , four and a half hours through vine yards and sunflowers again as well as some high passes to get across the Balkan Range. The bus had to pace itself behind donkey carts towing  trailers stacked with hand cut hay and loaded up with whanau . Quite a sight as we passed by.
We arrived in Velika Turnova at mid day and caught a taxi to our hotel, such a pretty place , picture perfect really and well positioned close to the old town on one of the oldest streets in the town.  We had a great view over the river and a spacious comfortable room . What more could traveller's wish for
The heat is fierce here today so took a break inside before venturing out to get our bearings and find the Seraphain House which was only open on Tuesday so we made that our priority . It told a story of the  domestic life of wealthy Bulgarians before the communist era.
Later we had a very pleasant Italian meal at a restaurant with a great view over the river before heading back to the hotel ready for tomorrow's delights.

Black Sea adventures

A beautiful day greets us and we make the most of our breakfast in the outdoor area by the pool . A real cup of English Breakfast tea today,bliss!Most of the tea to date has been chai, herbal and tolerable without milk but not quite as good as the English model.
We headed off to find the old town and as we thought it was right there under our noses,it is amazing what a wrong turn can do to the days outcomes.
We had a visit to the old port area and found were the cruise boats were and what they were offering . Ten lev for an hours evening cruise so we put that on the plan for later in the day,we planned to see the National Youth Dance Competition too,it was a free show and open to the public . It show cased all the local  folk dances of the regions along with some more modern dances and very entertaining.
The old Roman remains and the unique fishing houses were worth our wait . The old cobbled streets and winding pathway scaled into all sorts of fascinating places . The houses are three stories and the bottom floor was for their fishing gear while living above were the family . The upper floor stretched out over the streets nearly touching the  house across the street . The upper stories are in wood and engraved with symbols to wish the sailors safe passage . There were lots of little chapels here and we found a restaurant overlooking the sea to have a meal tonight before going back for a break from the heat.
Later we went down to the beach and lay in the sun,swam and people watched the afternoon away . Magic,I had to keep pinching myself that I was really there.
Later we went on our cruise out around the coastline and we saw the mussel farms off shore and some of the old fortifications and lighthouses on the headland . The night air was so balmy no wrap required just sit on deck and enjoy the scenery.
Back on shore we had another stroll around the local streets and watched the families enjoy the attractions.
Lots of the places have become guest houses and shop fronts for souvenirs as the town has become a place to visit on the coast but it has a laid back atmosphere and plenty of good relics and things of interest to see,such as an old authentic fishing caravelle housed in a shelter and Roman fortifications under restoration.
We bought some traditional Bulgarian weaving and rose cream from the Balkan Rose stand before heading back for the meal overlooking the bay,lights twinkling and moonshine bathing the beach.
Another lovely day in Bulgaria.