Greece here we come!!!

A very early start a with us tomorrow. We have to be at Gatwick by seven so decided to get a taxi there,such a trouble free trip compared to tube and trains.,we still had to leave by 5.30 am!
We were flying on an Olympic holiday deal so once we were at the airport they process you and take responsibility from there  onwards, they check your luggage in so no issues around how much you can get in your carry on  case!
The flight was three hours 36 minutes, on time and uneventful so arrived into a brilliant sunny day ready for our trip to Haraki,a small beach resort about an hour from the airport.
Our home for the next week is an apartment with self catering facilities and an outdoor deck overlooking the ruins of Peraklos Castle,the last strong hold of the Knights Temple which we finally climbed on our final night . At night it is lit up and looks most impressive.
We arrived about 40 pm and immediately set off for the beach, a bit of a walk along a local road but the treat once you arrived was well worth it . Deep sand and gleaming water,as blue as described but even better. We could not wait for our swim in the Agean Sea and it lived up to our expectations . We hung out there until after seven before walking into the Haraki village nearby for a Greek  meal and some breakfast provisions.
It was our lucky night because we found a restaurant serving traditional Greek food, not British 'home away from home ' meals but the real deal so we ate there every night . The food was delicious and Costos looked after us well plus his food was not expensive . I had moussaka and Lou the meatballs.

Charing adventure

Caught the train down to Charing mid morning on a balmy English day, I cannot believe the weather we have had this year,so unlike most summers I have spent here.
Brad met me at the station and we walked back through the village . A quintessential English village with a large church and village green and a high street featuring local shops and old houses opening onto the street . Doors so low even I need to duck my head and a range of buildings reflecting the history of the town.
Willow Cottage was such a house . The house is at the end of the row of similar cottages and it has a whitewashed exterior with blackened beams and low ceilings . It was like entering a dolls house for adults with tiny furniture to match the low ceilings and winding staircase to reach the bedrooms . Charming.
Cynthia has lived here for thirty plus years and done a lot of renovations to the interior as well as producing a delightful garden to sit in and enjoy the day.
We did quite a lot of walking around the village the day I arrived,up to the windmill on the hill overlooking the North Downs,through farmlands of wheat and broad beans!
Our big walk to Canterbury via the Pilgrims Way was planned ages ago but we had to postpone as it promised to be the hottest day of the Year . Thirty four degrees is not ideal for walking a long distance so we adjusted our plans and decided to get up early and walk to Wye on the North Downs walkway,about three and a half hours away and more suitable to the conditions.
A pleasant walk through rural England and we had the place to ourselves at seven o'clock when we set off across the downs.
We wi
We will have to come back next year to try again for Canterbury.
We caught the train back to Charing in time for lunch and relaxed in the garden until I caught the train back to London to meet Nick and Els for a picnic in the park opera in Cheswick Park . The Pirates of Penzance would you believe . Jim would have loved it.

London sojourn

Had a cool trip back into London on Friday,13 degrees in London compared to 30 in Sofia so a little adjusting to do.
It was great to meet up with the girls and have a catch up over a meal , I made them a Shopska salad  and served it with a nice Bulgarian pepper and tomato paste served on pita bread.
I spent a couple of days catching up on washing and relaxing from our non stop lifestyle to date . It was nice to just do some domestic chores for a change . Did I really say that!
Claire invited us up for dinner on Saturday evening and we sat out in the garden until quite late in balmy conditions and then enjoyed one of Claire signature dishes of roast NZ lamb and a salad of new peas and cooked lettuce followed by a yummy dessert of frozen berries served with a white chocolate sauce . Very spoilt we were .
I went garden nursery shopping with her on Sunday morning and then did some replanting and potting up so the outdoor area looks revitalized for the summer.
Lou and I did some packing and sorting stuff ready for her move so a pleasant time in the local area.
I did go into London to visit the Summer Art Exhibition at the Royal Academy and the National Portrait Gallery where I saw the newly acquired self portrait of Van Dyke and the current 2014 Portrait exhibition which I found quite compelling,more so than the Summer Exhibition,interesting as that was. I thought the design work and models really interesting and enjoyed some of the sculptures this year.
I went to the Caulfield Gallery and Somerset House as well as some of the iconic parts of the city such as Picadilly Circus,Trafalgar Square,Holborn and Shaftsbury then  rode home via the suburbs on a double decker and on a balmy afternoon.
Claire Louise and I then went to an amazing play at Fins bury Park called Intimate Apparel, a play set in New York in 1905 involving the aspirations and trials of a negro seamstress who dreamed of love,marriage and a dress shop but life dealt a blow and we were witness to the destruction of her dreams,powerful stuff . Great cast and we thoroughly enjoyed our night at the theatre.
Wednesday was very hot again so could not face being inside so went to Regents Park and spent a lovely time in the rose gardens and sitting by the ponds . Quintessential British venue and sure enough the tummies were bared and bikinis came out!
My final evening in London was spent with Nick and Els who kindly hosted me at theirs and we went to an outdoor theatre performance of The Pirates of Penzance in the grounds of Cheswick House . They had a very fine picnic packed up so a lovely evening was rewarded by the promised thunderstorm avoiding us until the performance was over.
Nick drove me up to Euston Station to catch my train to Manchester for a stay with Kristen and family . What a mission driving through London even on a Saturday morning.

Thoughts on Bulgaria

Sitting in the hotel lobby all decked out in my walking boots,icebreaker top socks and support stocking ready for pick up from our pink palace. Why the sauna ?It is a very strict airline so take no chances   on luggage allowance but I must say it will be good to get through the checking system and change layers.
Our flight was delayed an hour but finally we are on board and ready for the flight home . Having a read back through my diary has brought back the stand out memories and adventures we have had.

The walking, tough at times but would I have missed it -no, it was within our capabilities so a bit of a challenge gives you a mental edge . The meadows with all the different varieties of wildflowers,some species so familiar to us,the mineral springs scattered along the trails , pristine water everywhere we went .
The food,always of a high standard. Lovely salads in particular and fresh fruit at stalls on the roadside, honey and compote sold at stands and stalls set up by the side of the road . The tasty tomatoes and peppers were in great supply and so fresh.
The people,always helpful and friendly,"no problems" was their response to any situation .Very honest too as displayed by the young girl who ran along the beach to return two lev to Brad when she dropped it.
Our exhilarating jeep ride across country,the evening cruise on the Black Sea,the Free Walking Tours led by personable young Bulgarians proud of their country and the amazing light and sound show in Velika Turnova,the Free Food Tour, such a lot to enjoy and remember. Did I mention the Devils Throat Cave adventure well that was a test of will power!
The sight of fields of Sunflowers as far as the eye could see . The rustic Pomak farmers with their home made wagons, pitch forks and old equipment used for generations and all the colorful gardens in pots and on windowsills.
So many states and stories of their place in society that our guides shared with us . It was so interesting to hear it all come to life through the stories they told. Bronze statues testified to their place in history.

The lovely weather we had and the inexpensive cost of travelling here made it a place to appreciate . Eating out is very reasonable and cups of coffee as little as two lev,watch out when we get back to London.

Finally the cities and the cultural diversity of the country told through the tours we did which unpacked the layers of this fascinating country and gave us an insight into the rich history of a country with many masters.

There was little downside....maybe the train crash so we did not get to ride on the train as planned, not getting to see the Valley of the Roses but celebrations were over so that may wait for another visit.
Thank you Bulgaria for a great adventure,we will have lots to remember and share with friends.

The Free Food Tour of Sofia

After lunch we waited in Krystal Park beside an gruesome statue of a much hated dictator, Stefano Stambolov who had been assassinated so the statue has a huge crack running through his head . No love there!
Kris, our guide met us and outlined the original and purpose of our tour known as 'Best Bites'. He was proud of his city and believed this to be the only free  food Tour in the world . New York has one too but you have to pay for the food you eat . This tour is free and happens every day at 2.00pm . The first 15 get on the tour.
Our first stop was the Supa Star soup restaurant which  specialized in freshly made healthy fast foods for on the go people . Here we sampled Tarator soup , a summer specialty in Bulgaria- in fact I am making it for tea tonight . It is made from yoghurt,cucumber,dill,garlic and walnuts and for cucumber haters to be avoided but the rest will enjoy.
Our next stop was a cafe known as The Sun Moon that served 32 different breads daily  with traditional dips and fare . We were given two dips to sample made from roasted red peppers,tomato and garlic,very delicious and I managed to get a bottle at duty free to take back with me. The other dip had eggplant added to it both were tasty and reflected the importance of tomatoes and peppers to Bulgarians,they are staple food and Kris told us of his childhood and the rituals he remembered of the gathering and storing of food for winter months.
He took us past the open air book market and the oldest market in Sofia where people bought in their produce for sale.
He showed us the 'squats' small windows from basement shops opening into the streets at knee hight to sell food and drink items,lots near bus stops,very cheap to rent. He also told us why the houses were built overhanging the streets, money of course as they are taxed on the ground floor footprint . Makes sense now,I thought it was some traditional practice.
Our next stop was a very attractive rustic looking restaurant , called- wait for it: Hadjidraganovite Izbi which served us three local cheeses on breads and served with a local herb drink made there and served in tiny thimble like bowls .It  reminded me of a liqueur.
Our group was a nice mix too so we enjoyed their company along the way,we even found a fellow Kiwi,a young woman from Cromwell would you believe.
To finish the tour we were given a sweet soaked in sugar syrup on a stick. Lucky us to find this tour.
We ended our day with a trip down the fashion street looking for something for Brad to wear to a wedding before eating El fresco in a garden bar beside the museum and it's old Roman  artifacts . History everywhere you look here .
For a town that started with a seedy look two days ago  it slowly revealed itself as a place of rich history and culture as you explored the historical sites and gained an appreciation of the diversity of culture and heritage in a little known part of the world.

Exploring the city of Sofia

Another lovely day awaits us .Hot and sunny so sunglasses,hats and sunscreen are required. Lots of noise last night from trams passing our room overlooking the street plus an air conditioner which failed to work meant we were a little slower to start than planned but we were away by nine and we retraced our steps from the tour and revisited some of the stops in more depth e.g we sat in on a service at the Sveta  Nedelya Church for part of the Thursday morning service which is said to ward off black magic and the evil eye!
This church is also a scene of early terrorism . History tells of a plot by communist sympathisers to assassinate the Bulgarian King in 1925 by packing the church dome with dynamite and detonating it during a funeral service of a local dignitary . The king escaped because he was late but 123 people died.
Another bizarre story is that of women who believed in the health giving properties of leaving your undies in a plastic bag for 24 hours inside the  chest said to contain the relics of one Stefano Uriah for a cure.
We visited the new subway station for another look at the Roman remains of the city discovered as they excavated the main line . The outcome has been to enclose part of the ruins in glass so you can look through at the old city,they even have an ancient  wooden bridge under glass . Later the will be an outdoor museum where you will be able to walk amongst the restoration . An imaginative project and a good example of my comment about a city built on layers.
In this area known as the Largo was also  a 4th Century iconic church known as Sveti St George, the oldest  in Sofia but encircled by modern communist built buildings at odds with the architecture of the church . The communists built a huge department store there to vital the west and locals called it Tzum or zoom because of the elevator inside,they were fascinated by the moving stairs . The other buildings housed government buildings and ministers but today rather ignored by the people.
Overlooking this whole area was a massive statue known as Sveta Sofia,not after the city but is said to denote holy wisdom . It was built on the site of Lenin's Statue torn down after the communists were overthrown.
Serdika was the original name of the city  established by the Thracians later overtaken by the Byzantine, Romans and most hated,the Ottoman Empire who ruled for five hundred years . Most Bulgarians speak sadly of this time in their history as they were basically slaves in their own country and treated appallingly by the Turks. They had a couple of periods of self rule as a kingdom and are proud of this part of their history.
Religion plays a big part in the story of the city as there are also mosques,a synagogue,a Catholic cathedral and Bulgarian Orthodox churches all close together . Lovely buildings which were closed today because of storm damage.
We wandered down the yellow brick road,a feature of the inner city which leads past the art gallery and other notable buildings as we made our way to the church,Aleksandur New ski . This church was built by the Russian and Baltic people to honor their dead,killed during the war of independence from the Ottoman Empire . A magnificent place,gleaming domes of gold caught the sunlight and made it an impressive sight at the end of the Avenue.
The monument to the unknown soldier is also close by and guarded by a huge lion statue,Bulgarians love lions! They have them everywhere there is a significant building.
We saw the ornate old bath house built for the people by the king as he thought if they smelled good they would feel good so he drew hot  water from the mineral springs to provide a great asset . This building is under restoration and will be amazing. There are hot mineral fountains nearby where people were constantly driving in and filling up containers while others took the waters as they believed they had medicinal properties and could cure illness of the digestive tract.
The morning passed quickly as we explored the local neighborhoods and market places and soon it was time for a break at Costa for coffee.

Destination Sofia

We had a very civilized departure today from our penultimate destination . How grand does that sound. Sad for us as we have had a marvelous two weeks exploring this country, so far exceeding our expectations and proving to be a neat holiday destination.

Breakfast, at our hotel sitting out in the sun, consisted of Bulgarian  yoghurt,very thick creamy texture used on fruit,savory dishes,or served on its own in a bowl,baniska - a delicious filo pastry dish with egg and cheese,a  delicacy in Bulgaria and an assortment of meats,cheeses,olives,tomatoes etc . plus fresh cherries,nectarines and apricots. The General Gurka hotel was a winner last year on Trip Adviser and we could see why,nothing was a problem for staff and we were looked after well.
We caught a cab to the bus stand where the express bus to Sofia departed from at 10.30 am and enjoyed an uneventful trip 3 hour to the capital city and our starting point two weeks earlier. The trickiest part was negotiating a taxi ride as the travel book said to be wary of unlicensed cab drivers setting outrageous fares and sure enough one approached us offering a bargain trip for 20 lev!We eventually got one for 5 lev so beware travellers it pays to negotiate.
Back to our pink palace,The Renaissance Hotel in central Sofia which suited us well location wise as it was in walking distance to the main historical sites we were keen to see as well as key shopping streets . Time for some retail therapy . Prices for clothes,shoes is very cheap compared to London but also they are quite trendy , stylish garments so fun to look no room to buy.

I have to say my initial impressions of Sofia were not favorable as it presents as a scruffy town with lots of graffiti on buildings which cry out for maintenance attention,oversized concrete housing estates- a legacy from the communist era and rough reading systems .
All this was surface stuff and I discovered this is a city of layers,layer upon layer of history and events which shaped the lives of its residents over centuries . Our walking tour was one of peace and tranquility,rural living undisturbed for centuries by comparison and highlighted by the rugged scenery and friendly people but now we were in a new reality,a city of contrasts of rebuilding for a future as a European city of culture applicant.
Our impressions we not helped as we came in by bus driving through the outer suburbs we were struck by the ugliest building sites and derelict housing on the outskirts of the city,traffic problems because of road works did not help and the lack of green spaces added to the impressions we had formed but it grew on us and by the time we left Sofia it had become a place of real potential and interest. There was lots to be positive about as it turned  out.
The city had been struck by massive storms the previous day, hailstones devastated the trees, shedding their leaves and creating a huge mess,damaging buildings and cars and creating a nightmare for workers who had to take shelter anywhere they could . There was an arm of task force green like people all over the place sweeping up huge piles of lives ready to be collected and removed by council trucks . One tourist we met showed us the storm on her phone video and it was ferocious - hailstones travelling along the streets like a river in flood taking all before it and the noise was furious . Quite an event.
Our first plan after unpacking was to find the Palace of Justice before six as there was another free walking tour available in Sofia so we wanted to be in the right place at the right time . We filled in time exploring Boulevard Vitosha, a shopping paradise in a car free street lined with shops,cafes etc and designed for promenading along . The Bulgarians do enjoy a good promenade later in the day,early evening when the temperatures cool down. Coffee was also on the plan and we chilled out in a place offering hookah pipes for inhaling...what...We did not find out .... curiouser and curiouser!
Dino was our tour guide for the tour and he was a character,a great communicator and it turned out he was an actor in the town and he did this as an extra to promote the city . These educated young Bulgarians all seem very proud of their country and want it to succeed as an EU country although several said their grandparents generation regret the demise of communism because of the security of living they once had was taken away, many older people feel overwhelmed at the cost of living and the changes they face living in their communities today.
Dino gave us a great lesson in the life and times of the city . Sofia is 7000 years old and it's history goes back to the Thracian people . More about this tomorrow.
After the tour we dined at the Happy Cafe, a local chain featuring a convivial atmosphere,good food and lots of happy customers a good note to end the day on.

Exploring the sights of Velika Turnova.

A great start to the day,sunshine and warm temperatures promised to make this a very pleasant day to explore the town.
We found out about a free tour run by students starting at 11.00 am so we decided to give it a go, how pleased we were as we met some nice people and our guide Alex was very knowledgeable and gave us a great introduction to Bulgarian history and specific events affecting this town and it's residents over the ages . It is one of the oldest towns as well as the capital and residence of the first Tzars of Bulgaria until along came the Romans who established Plovdiv as the capital due to its strategic position
We set off to find the Information Centre and meet up with the guide . I was wondering how we would survive the heat in the middle of the day but Alex had it well planned and assembled us in shady places and seemed to avoid the steep streets and flights of steps Brad and I struggled with on our tour.
This is a town of heights,houses tumble down the hillside and cobbled streets run upwards without any apparent plan,steps lead into nooks and crannies and signposts point in general directions rather than specific places,very confusing to the visitor.

Our tour led us around the key sights around the old town mentioned in the guide book especially the Tsarvets fortification which takes several hours to look around  and the Essen monument which we can see from our Window . We also saw the best place to watch the evening light and sound show which turned out to be spectacular . Amazing effects  of these lights playing across the old fortress ruins and telling the story of the history of the town through musical effects. They do not do it every night any longer because of the cost so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. We had to wait until after nine thirty but it was worth it.

We spent some time doing some shopping as the hand crafts were done by authentic craftspeople in a particular place Alex took us to so we bought some pottery and small things to stow away in our pockets.

Later in the day when it got a little cooler we walked up to the Tsarvets site,a massive fortress and castle dating back to the 2nd century . It is in a very strategic position and over the centuries its use had changed depending on who  the vanquished or victorious were . We climbed all over the site and enjoyed the views and historic significant of the place . Not a lot of information  in English  to help us but some visuals helped.
Dinner and bed followed . Our day had been very active and it was nice to relax over a pleasant meal of salads and pita bread at our favorite restaurant.

Velika Turnova here we come!

Up at 5.30 am this morning to catch the earliest bus out of Sozopol in order to catch the connecting bus from Burgas to Velika Turnova,apparently there is only one a day so we can not miss it. Fortune shone on us and we arrived at West Station in time to catch the bus . Another anxious moment as we realized other traveller's had tickets booked but we were too late as the ticket office closed just as we arrived . It was a very small bus so there was some nervous  moments as we waited to see if there was room for us . Every seat was taken by the time we got on so we were lucky . Bad luck for those further up the line who wanted a ride,they were ignored and left to wait another day.
We had one stop at Stiven for a coffee and rest rooms so not like our earlier bus trip where stops were frequent and sociable!

We had an interesting trip , four and a half hours through vine yards and sunflowers again as well as some high passes to get across the Balkan Range. The bus had to pace itself behind donkey carts towing  trailers stacked with hand cut hay and loaded up with whanau . Quite a sight as we passed by.
We arrived in Velika Turnova at mid day and caught a taxi to our hotel, such a pretty place , picture perfect really and well positioned close to the old town on one of the oldest streets in the town.  We had a great view over the river and a spacious comfortable room . What more could traveller's wish for
The heat is fierce here today so took a break inside before venturing out to get our bearings and find the Seraphain House which was only open on Tuesday so we made that our priority . It told a story of the  domestic life of wealthy Bulgarians before the communist era.
Later we had a very pleasant Italian meal at a restaurant with a great view over the river before heading back to the hotel ready for tomorrow's delights.

Black Sea adventures

A beautiful day greets us and we make the most of our breakfast in the outdoor area by the pool . A real cup of English Breakfast tea today,bliss!Most of the tea to date has been chai, herbal and tolerable without milk but not quite as good as the English model.
We headed off to find the old town and as we thought it was right there under our noses,it is amazing what a wrong turn can do to the days outcomes.
We had a visit to the old port area and found were the cruise boats were and what they were offering . Ten lev for an hours evening cruise so we put that on the plan for later in the day,we planned to see the National Youth Dance Competition too,it was a free show and open to the public . It show cased all the local  folk dances of the regions along with some more modern dances and very entertaining.
The old Roman remains and the unique fishing houses were worth our wait . The old cobbled streets and winding pathway scaled into all sorts of fascinating places . The houses are three stories and the bottom floor was for their fishing gear while living above were the family . The upper floor stretched out over the streets nearly touching the  house across the street . The upper stories are in wood and engraved with symbols to wish the sailors safe passage . There were lots of little chapels here and we found a restaurant overlooking the sea to have a meal tonight before going back for a break from the heat.
Later we went down to the beach and lay in the sun,swam and people watched the afternoon away . Magic,I had to keep pinching myself that I was really there.
Later we went on our cruise out around the coastline and we saw the mussel farms off shore and some of the old fortifications and lighthouses on the headland . The night air was so balmy no wrap required just sit on deck and enjoy the scenery.
Back on shore we had another stroll around the local streets and watched the families enjoy the attractions.
Lots of the places have become guest houses and shop fronts for souvenirs as the town has become a place to visit on the coast but it has a laid back atmosphere and plenty of good relics and things of interest to see,such as an old authentic fishing caravelle housed in a shelter and Roman fortifications under restoration.
We bought some traditional Bulgarian weaving and rose cream from the Balkan Rose stand before heading back for the meal overlooking the bay,lights twinkling and moonshine bathing the beach.
Another lovely day in Bulgaria.

Sozopol,the place in the sun.

What a good choice for our rest and relaxation phase,Sozopol offers much variety and interest for travellers and we enjoyed our stay here, maybe even wishing we had been able to extend it to take advantage of the coastal trips available on the Black Sea and more time on the beach.
Our day started  early because we had to catch the 9.15 am train to Burgas from Plovdiv and being worry warts we needed to check out the railway station to find out how to book tickets . It is quite a big station with very little English signeage to help out so having time to check it out was important . We were a bit early but met an American traveller, Zander who like us was going to Sozopol so we shared our life stories and then passed in the night as he was staying out of the town near a beach resort . That is the way of this travel mode,meet and greet, enjoy and move on, never to be seen again.
Out train trip was uneventful although all Bulgarians we met were disparaging of the rail system,the equipment was pretty old,covered in graffiti and rather unloved looking but it worked and we arrived too find the bus to Sozopol left at a bus station nearby so a quick transfer and we were on our way,another 40 minutes down the coast before we arrived in the old seaside resort town.
We found our hotel quite easily,charming and very hospitable hosts made us welcome and we were unpacked and away! Our rooms were fresh and the beds made up with yellow and white towels and spreads so looked sunny and inviting the minute we opened the door.
The hotel had outdoor seating,a pool and lovely plantings around the grounds all giving a shady haven after a day in the sun . It is very warm here so sitting outside until late is a treat rather than an obligation.
Lots to see and do here . The vibe is evident the minute you walk down the street . Lots of tat too but all part of the atmosphere . I paddled my feet in the Black Sea and promised myself a swim tomorrow . We explored the market area where all the food stalls were located and went for a walk to find the old town but got hopelessly lost and spent about three hours walking around the headland looking at opulent houses,interesting but not any different than anywhere else in the world really.
By the time we found our way back it was getting dark and time for tea so we went and sat in the market and ate take away  kebabs and watched the revellers prepare to party the night away . There was music and festivities on every block but no evidence of unsafe stuff so we just enjoyed being part of it.
Sleep was on the agenda so we returned to our lovely room and hit the sack.

Plovdiv

What a treat to arrive at our hotel and be able to step out into the streets of the prettiest town so far . The name Hotel Romantic set the scene as we arrived,a pretty pink National Revival building set off the main street in a traffic free location . Inside it was not quite up to the exterior but a lovely helpful crew made it a  nice place to stay . They did offer a larger room but we were only there for a night so squeezed in.
We did visit Plovdiv on our way to Orehova so we did get a taste of its treasures then as our guide took us along a two hour walk through the main points of interest so we were able to retrace our steps and linger at places of interest such as the Roman Amphitheatre which we explored and the Forum on top of the old town . We traversed the cobbled streets twice that night in order to see a rehearsal there for an Opera . It was magic sitting above the Forum looking down on the performance,listening to beautiful music and singing under the stars even if we did not know the opera.
We dined well at a traditional restaurant on shopska salad,chicken and lemon cello to finish . Later that night we treated ourselves to an ice cream at the Dreams Cafe and watched a bit of the soccer,reminiscent of Cologne four years ago before retracing our steps back to the hotel.

Walking the Rodopi Mts over and our next adventure begins.....

Up at 5.30 ready for a 6.00 am pick up . Vasco was to be our driver for our trip to the railhead at Dobriniske some two hours twenty minutes away from Trigard . This was new for our driver and he was not sure of the way so had been on Google and got it all sorted but it was a good trip through another part of the Rhodopi mountains towards the Rila monastery and Melik, apparently lovely places to travel to but not enough time to see everything we need to move along.
Sadly we arrived to find out the narrow gauge rail trip was not to be, the station manager told us the  train had had a crash and we would have to go on the bus instead at 10.20 am. A real disappointment but these things happen . There did not seem to be any information of this anywhere but people were working on a bridge further along so maybe that was the reason.
We sat in the sun,a couple of cinderallas waiting for our coach outside the railway station,another rustic vehicle turned up,hardly a coach
but it got us there with many stops along the way . This travel experience  was interesting in itself as bus drivers have stops,dismount have a smoke , talk to their friends as they require . The bus conductor laboriously hand wrote our tickets on the bus,
you cannot book ahead so it is a time warp.
The scenery was interesting and we passed Bulgaria's highest mountain,Mt Virhen in the Perin Ranges, also the site of skiing facilities for tourists because it featured a ski tow.
We  passed through Bolovo,known as the toilet capital of the world for the production of toilet paper . Great place to be caught short.
We also passed through Bransko,Velilgrad,spa towns along the route and arrived in Sempteveri as planned for out train trip to Plovdiv.
An old dunger of a train pulled up and on we climbed for an hours trip to Plovdiv . More about this lovely place later.

From grim to great.

The day started badly . I woke up rather miserable and out of sorts,must be all the rich food from dinner last night so not too keen on a 750 m climb planned for that morning.
We changed tack and sat in the sun for awhile and caught up on a few things like topping up my phone card which proved more difficult than expected but got there in the end . Problem solving never has been my strong suit. The hotel is lovely and set in a rustic location so no problem enjoying some down time . We have been busy since the walk started.
Plan b involved us setting out about midday with a driver who would take us into the Chariste Lakes and we would walk back out to the road where he would collect us.
Our driver turned up on time in a rusting jeep obviously many years of service on the clock . Vasco was his name and very personable . He was a student of electricity at Sofia in the term time and lived locally . We met his grandmother as we passed through the village,he stopped for a chat and she had the gait and demeanor of a very elderly person but probably younger than us.
What an exhilarating ride we had,bouncing along gravel roads,hanging onto the bars of the roof cover for safety . It was as good as a gym workout!
At times we coasted down rough slopes with the motor cut, re -running some sections where it was too steep,fording rivers and generally attacking the terrain with intent . Verso was a good driver and enjoyed himself but it would take little to come to grief along the way.
We stopped at a few points of interest such as a stone tunnel and the first of the lakes which turned out to be the most scenic of the seven to take photos.
The rest of the lakes we would not term them as such but they were more like storage dams but the trip was worth it.
Vesco dropped us off at the top lake,pointed us towards a rough track in the grass and waved us goodbye. We were on our own.
We anticipated a long trip back fording rivers etc but he had given us a scenic drive-turbo style on the way there  so our walk back was a peaceful one alongside the river and on fairly level surfaces once we scrambled down the mountain pathway . My toe is not happy with this trip. Happily it was not too long before we negotiated the last perpendicular section and found our local road leading out of the lake area.
Lots of lovely wildflowers to interest us and many varieties of butterflies flit about in stony areas . We did get a light shower if rain our first in Bulgaria . Later that night heavy rain prevented our evening walk.
After about two to three hours we emerged at the main road to find Verso waiting for us as arranged . Voila,our communication is improving..

Trigard and The Devils Throat Cave

Today our host transported us from Shiroka Luka to Trigard . A trip of about an hour through some stunning scenery,dreadful roads and some risky driving. It was a trip in silence as he did not speak any English and we did not have any Bulgarian to bridge the gap but he chatted on his phone,drank his coffee and drove like a local until we arrived at our hotel in Trigard some ten kilometers from the village.
Driving in Bulgaria seems safe enough but road surfaces are terrible so drivers swerve out to avoid potholes and then face oncoming traffic . Fortunately the traffic is not heavy  so evasive action seems to work for them,a bit unnerving in the back seat.
We were escorted to our rooms and made very welcome by our host who spoke some English but who did not seem to know much about us apart from our accomodation and food so we called up Simeon who sorted it out .A  rather striking character soon appeared,clad in cowboy regalia and sporting rather weather beaten features he did not speak any English but he was to take us to the cave which we had passed before the village . Simon gave us instructions to go with him and a tour would be arranged . Not sure how I felt about this as underground is not my choice but decided to such it up and at least try.
The cave is Impressive,the passageway in has been hand made but once in the chamber can house two cathedrals and is know for a large endangered bat population which have their roosting spots high above . Not many left at this time of the year but we did see some.
The history of the cave is linked to the legend of Orpheus,here he was said to have looked back as rescued his love which resulted in her plunging to her death never to be seen again . There is a drawing of him on the cave walls.
The guide gave us all this in a potted history plus more recent details of how despite various methods people had not been able to find the water exit,this is a major mystery.
We survived the experience and then had to climb 600 steeps to the exit . That was a quick heart check up.
Our guide increased by another one who transfered us up the road for a walk to a village further on called Yagonda.
This entailed a very sharp climb up the side of the road above the cave itself . My lungs were gasping by the time I got to the top and Brad was about to have a tantrum as I called from above there was more to come even though there was another road passing by . No we were at the top but it was a great place for our lunch break and recovery phase 2.
The rest was very pleasant walk in the forest following red markers which gave us a false sense of safety as they changed direction and we no longer seemed to be in the right place . We backtracked but could not decide on where we were although I felt we were in the right direction . It was a huge relief to come across the village some hours later I can assure you.
We came down into a pretty rustic little village with a mosque and people making hay with pitch forks and transporting the hay on  old wooden trailers,horse driven with all the family atop . This is a pomak village, Bulgarian Muslims who were discriminated badly under Communism but now are rebuilding their mosques and way of life  so women wear scarves covering their heads but not Chardors or burka . They seem very poor to us but always seem cheerful when we greet them.
Our ride arrived and we had a pretty rough trip back across some terrain reminiscent of going to Mace town!
It was nice to get back to our hotel and chill out before dinner . We are very comfortable here and a lovely rural aspect,the sheep and cows are bought back from the pastures late in the day,cow bells and all.

Another day,another place!

Well we are on the move again . After a wonderful nights sleep and a breakfast of  a type of French Toast served with compote and cheese. We had the company of our orphan friends who downed glasses 8 milk and large bread rolls before heading away to their summer school activities.
Today we are driving from Shiroka Luka courtesy of our hosts along the Panorama Road where they will drop us off and we walk back to the village.
The map reading skills were a lot easier today as we walked for two hours along the road which was on the top of a ridge and gave us some lovely views across the valleys . We started descending then and ate our lunch in a little chapel by a spring, thoughtfully providing us a seat in the sun so we could take in the view.
Our destination was to the birthplace of Orpheus in a village called Gela where Stephanie was to collect us so we had plenty of time we thought to take in the significance of this place . The music will always have a new significance.
First of all we passed through Stickel, the highest village in Bulgaria and little else of note . What a desolate place,the main street was dusty and potholes without a whole building in sight . I took a photo of the prettiest thing I could find there,a lovely old rose climbing a fence . Pleased to leave that place . We passed a man with a pitchfork turning the hay and two boys on bikes and that was Stickel.
Gela was an improvement but little to see in such a noteworthy birthplace so we were ready to catch our car back to Shiroka Luka so we could explore the village before tea,have a drink at a bar and enjoy our meal.

Orehova to Shiro ka Luka

We are getting into the swing of life on the hoof!
Our muscles are hardening and we are getting into the swing of six hour walks up hill and down Dale. Why did I think I would not need my stick which travelled all the way to London and got left in Louis flat . Thankfully our hostess gave me a mountain stick to take with me and boy did I need it . Negotiating rocky trails provided some security from twisted ankles and worse!
Our day began with a pile of thick pancakes, beautifully cooked with compote and thick yoghurt to go with them .
Then it was off in the car along a goat track termed a road to another mountain village called Zagundo,very rustic and impoverished by our standards but everyone we meet is welcoming and friendly . Dober den gets a cheery response and when help is needed they do their best to please . Lovely cheerful people too,lots of laughter and they enjoy sitting outside in the evenings for a chat with their neighbour's.
The roads here are a challenge.

Sofia to Plovdiv to Orehova

Great day to start our travels as the sun is shining and our driver arrives on time to start our adventure . Simon is his name pronounced See me on . It is a popular name here as he said when even the cats were called Simon.
We had a hearty breakfast but just as well as we did not eat again until after six as our guide walked the legs off us in Plovdiv and again at the Bransko Monastery.
We drove about two hours on the main arterial motorway linking Sofia to the Black Sea along the Balkan mountain range for 750 km so lots of forests and agricultural scenery to see . The fields of Sunflowers were spectacular and gave the landscape a golden hue.
We got to Plovdiv be for midday and set off on foot to see this amazing town,second largest in Bulgaria . We visited the old heritage part of the town, firstly seeing the national revival buildings and then the remains of the  Roman amphitheater which seated three thousand people for completions before climbing further up into the Roman Theatre still used for opera performances today . The National School of Music is adjacent to the site . so much to see here and our time does not allow us to go inside the Ethnographical  Museum,we walked around the courtyard and looked at the craftspeople working on a wide variety of handcrafts.
This town was built between three hills in a strategic position so the Romans could command the region so fortifications are still evident and one hillside is an art installation done by local art students telling the history of the people who formed the history of Bulgaria . fascinating to climb around this site and the old Roman walls atop the city itself.
After two hours walking in very warm temperatures we set off for Bransko Monastery, this is the second largest community in Bulgaria and we were able to go inside and see the interior of the church. Seating is only for old people,the rest stand for the service . Amazing gold patterning and detail although aging now and little money to repair it. A priest took an interest in us and gave us flowers when he knew we were from New Zealand.
Onwards now to Orehova,a small village perched on the side of a mountain and very folksy . Timber houses overhanging the roads with slate tiles and many in a decrepit state . Lots of pot plants and gardens are  colorful and lots of fruit and vegetables grown . We were left here by Simon with our hostess who did not speak any English so some entertaining moments as she loved to talk and was very friendly to us . We were worn out trying to decipher her stories . A great cook too,we had wonderful local dishes on our stay,Lovely salad,fish and stuffed pepper with rice and potatoes followed by a fresh melon salad and compote on our first day.
After a walk around the village we headed for bed but.....A very hard resting place I have to say but exhaustion is a blessing at times like this.

Orehova and the Wonder Bridges

OMG.
I had this lovely idea we would be walking along rivers admiring the wild flowers and seeing charming scenes of village life Balkan style.
Well the reality was far from this . Our stamina was duly tested as the day unfolded but we emerged victorious if a trifle battle worn.
Our day began with this delicious dish called Branista a filo and egg confection light as a feather and a large packed lunch just in case we had a space left.
Our hostess and her grand daughter drove us to the area known as the Wonder Bridges,amazing rock structures high in the hills above the villages.
Brad and I spent ages trying to decipher the map we were given by Simon but all so unfamiliar we were apprehensive,plus our written instructions were a little strange as they were translated by non English speaking people .
The hostess left us to it after we had admired the bridges so onwards and upwards it proved . We climbed high above the tree line through many types of fir trees of all hues,pastures of meadow flowers and views from a dizzying height it seemed . The way was sometimes rocky and rough underfoot so I was glad of my stick . You need to be a mountain goat to survive here.
Downhill was the biggest challenge and the three hour hike on paper turned into six as we negotiated our way down glacial tracks gutted by rain and obstacles designed to impede our progress.
Eventually we staggered into our guest house to be revived by a shower and another lovely meal of kebabs and a potato bake,salad and Tiramasu to finish us off.