Travel day. Lovran to Zadar.

Another beautiful day on the Adriatic coast as we set off to catch the local bus to Rijeka where the main bus station is sited.Lovren is a lovely residential town with holiday makers out in force.
Our hotel was comfortable but not up to the same luxury as a Buzet but friendly people and very helpful.This has been a feature everywhere we go.

Some beautiful old houses line the road as we travel along the coast.Pleasure boats and beach entertainment suggest a summer playground for mostly European visitors.Lots of German and Italian accents.We did meet a Slovanian couple ,the man was wearing an All Black t-shirt so we stopped and spoke to them.He is a big fan of our team!
We arrived in Rijeka with a couple of hours to explore the old town so we stored our bags and headed out to see the town which is noted for transportation to other parts but it does have some interesting buildings with evidence of rebuilding going on in the old centre. EU money at work here.
We got a map from the information centre and two hours saw most of the historic places of note. Most were religious sites so not neccessary to go inside,just interesting the architecture. The photos will have to come later as I did not have my tablet with me.
I have to say we avoided too many steps today as muscles are sore from our walking so the bus trip will be a welcome respite.

12.30 pm we headed off on our bus to Zadar. It is a five and a half hour trip and someway along the way a text back from our hostess suggested they did not expect us until tomorrow!!! Anyway she was happy for us to come and stay two nights and we were pleased too as Zadar is a neat place. It was voted European best place to visit 2016 so it all worked out just fine.
The bus trip was fine,a very comfortable air conditioned bus with adjustable seats fit for a snooze.The countryside was very rugged for most of the way.Hard to know what could be grown in this part of the country.Scrub and white limestone like rocks dominate the hills here.The road weaves along a coastal route up hill and down dale at times, with spectacular views across to islands off shore which seem to be unpopulated in the first part of the trip anyway.
We passed through a number of coastal resorts and fishing villages and eventually arrived at Zadar where we were assailed by taxi drivers and apartmun offers.
Eventually we found we could catch a local bus to the old town where we were staying but a nicer taxi driver offered to take the two of us for 50 Kuna to the gates of the old town.You cannot drive into the town but we were very close to the centre so not a problem.You have to pay to have your cases taken on a bus so it was quicker and more comfortable to get to our destination by car.
Our hostess was waiting for us at our apartment and she made us very welcome and gave us a local map and the name of a place to dine.
The apartment is very central,basic but clean and everything in it we needed.So we are delighted to be here and after unpacking we set off to explore the sights she had told us about like the market which has shut up by the time we arrived but back tomorrow.
We walked through the old part of the town with the Roman forum remains and onto the area to hear the sea organ play at sunset.It was a spectacular sunset and the sea organ is evocative under balmy skies.In the same area is a solar clock installation so we stayed to see the show before heading off for dinner at Pet Burran which means five wells in Croatian.
We had a delicious meal of local cuisine.I had a turkey breast coated in slivered almonds and stuffed with fig and a local vegetable with a fresh salad of local vegetables and Brad had a beef dish in a sweet and sour sauce from local recipes.
It was after eleven when we got back to our apartment but stalls were only just shutting up.It is a long day for the tourist dollar in these parts.
It was a nice feeling to nod off knowing we were staying in one place the following day.

Standing on top of Istria....

Today was a highlight I have to admit.We debated if we could do the full day walk today but the weather was cooler and the big walk yesterday gave us confidence we could manage the challenge of such a climb so we made the decision just before leaving the hotel.
Our driver collected us at nine and we set off to Poklon about 45 minutes away.Some of the trip was on toll roads and we drove through National Parkland to Ucka first and then further up the mountain we arrived at Poklon.
We were struck by the views immediately.Kvarner Bay lay out in front of us,blue as blue dotted with islands ad far as the eye could see.Rijeka was spread not below us,much bigger than I imagined.
Poklon is named after the first tribes but it was a pilgrimage site too for the overland route to the shrine so there is a large cross recognizing their faith, as in subsequent years during the wars, access was impossible and Poklon was where they could see the shrine so they worshipped there.
We headed off  to climb Vojak, the highest  mountain in the Ucka National Park, in fact the highest in Croatia.  From here (I never said we climbed from the bottom!) Poklon is about 900 meters above sea level and we climbed to 1,401 metres to teach the summit of Vojak.
The trail was through some lovely beech forest and we had a few hit and misses with the directions we were given but we followed the road upwards  and eventually the structures on top of the peak came into sight.These were telecommunication type structures but we kept walking until we got to the climbing tower and observation point built by Austrian Hungarian interests,now restored by the local community with a shop and viewing tower.Spectacular views all over Istria.
We spent a bit of time here and Brad's great nephews have bibs featuring local butterflies.Little will they know how hard she worked to get them for them.
The butterflies are colorful and in large numbers.We have seen brilliant blue ones each day along with admirals and today there were lots of rich dark ones with red markings,almost clouds in places.
We might have seen a buzzard and a  jeweled salamander but they did not emerge for us. Lots of lizards however scuttling over the rocks when disturbed by our noisy appearance.
Our very first live farm animal we saw today as we approached Lovran was a goat with kids.Not sure where they store animals but plenty of meat on the menu.
Well atop the mountain we were but we had to get down and it was a long way down,rough tracks,hair raising at times but well signposted and plenty of markings on the rocks to guide us down 1386 meters until we hit the coastal town of Lovran. Much of the track was through the bush on well formed bush tracks but then it would change to rocky steps, perpendicular at times and every step had to be carefully placed to avoid an accident.
One excitement was the wild flowers on the first part of the track.There were lots of familiar ones but in small alpine sizing such as geraniums, but the excitement was the low growing  rose like a spinossa or Scots rose.So pretty and vigorous with a single white flower.Then further down the mountain there were roses like our briar rose growing wild along the pathway.A photo stop was required to show rose lovers back home.
Several hours had passed and we still had two hours to go at our lunch stop according to the sign but I am afraid it took us much more than that. Eight hours in total.Not bad for the old girls!!!
At one stage I was in sight of the town and we had a long trail of steps to climb down.They stretched out as far as you could see and I was seriously wondering if we would make it.Brad was finding it tough so we had a stop and some sustenance which was just enough to get us down the last stretch to the town.
What a relief to emerge onto the main street and find our hotel was right there.
High fives all round.We had done it but we both have decided this is the last effort at this degree of difficulty.
It is such a pleasant little town to wander around.The night was warm and dinner was needed after our revival time so we found a beach side place to dine and then ate a ice cream sundae at one of those fancy parlors they have here.We have been promising ourselves one since we arrived and today we earned it!!!!

Humming along to Hum

Today was a beauty.Nice and warm,sunny skies but thunder storms predicted so soon after breakfast we set off to walk to Hum,the smallest town in the world.
We set off from Buzet about 8.30 and walked alongside the Mirna River for the greater part of the walk.When we began it was a reasonable size but by the time we last saw it it had  become a very small stream.
The walk was very enjoyable as the instructions today were much better and the markathons did not run out like yesterday.We even had signposts pointing to Hum in a couple of places.Very reassuring.
The walk was lovely.Quite long but lots of interest in the countryside.The fields are planted out in vegetables and grain crops and each house has a productive garden.Still a lot of vines and figs are prolific here too.A food basket place.We even saw a few walkers on the track today.
We crossed the Mirna River a number of times and avoided muddy sections with some elegant sidestepping. There has been a lot of rain in Croatia before we arrived so so parts of the track were quite tricky to navigate.
Each of the villages we passed had small chapels with statues of the Virgin Mary as a centerpiece, plus flowers and religious symbols.
The first village was Kotli where there was an old water wheel and mill and a couple of houses,no more.The name of the village relates to the water holes in the river where you could swim,play and enjoy on a sunny day.

Our next village was Bencici where we stopped for a break after a couple of hours walking.This was an example of an original stone Croatian village with most of the buildings boarded up and abandoned. They were solidly constructed with wooden shutters and very solid doors, some wood, some iron
We sat in the porch of one of them and caught our breath.Brad found an orange in her pack so that was a treat.We had promised ourselves lunch in Hum at a traditional Istrian Koanga.
The most concerning thing we saw was the hunters shelters which were elevated platforms with a roof and a ladder to access it.I was wondering what sort of animals were in the area and how dangerous were they if they needed to be so high up.I can say we did not see or hear anything to cause concern until I got chased by an aggressive mutt near Hum.He got a good poke with my sticks.
We eventually arrived at the foot of the track leading up to Hum.The notes made it look easy but it was an uphill slog in hot conditions.The track was an old riverbed and care was needed to keep your footing.I had memories of Poland.
Eventually we arrived at a track leading through forest and onwards to Hum itself.
Now this was an experience. We had the most delectable sandwiches at the kaonga plus a cold drink and a wonderful view over the hills.It was a relief to arrive without incident so we enjoyed a look around the old town before ringing our taxi to deliver us back to the hotel.Thunder rolled and the skies opened so our timing was great.
Back home we had a swim in the pool before exploring Buzet and enjoying a drink by the town walls overlooking the valley below us.
Later we dined in the restaurant where I tried the local soup again and a delicious poker and mushroom main.
It was the end of a successful day.Now we pack and get ready for the final day walking.It is the big challenge,climbing the highest peak in Istria so better get some sleep......

Lost in the hills

What a day we had today.It was a great start at our lovely hotel in Motovun where we were served up scrambled eggs and truffle oil for breakfast with lovely fresh fruit and fresh breads.
The people here have been so helpful and the place is fresh and airy which is a contrast to the other hotels which tend to be very dark inside with heavy wooden shutters tightly latched to keep out the sun.
Our new driver appeared after breakfast to take us to our next walking start at Buzet,this time a larger regional town with some local industry on the outskirts.We were staying in the old town in a four star hotel with a swimming pool - everything is heated,even the rails going down into the water and the seats you recline in.I had a lovely swim on returning from our worst day ever.
We set off on the walk down the river Mirna towards a mining settlement at  Minjera about an hour and a half away.The thunder was crashing above us as we walked and we expected another deluge any minute but nothing came of it so we enjoyed our walk along the river pathway and after getting to the Minjera bridge we climbed upwards through some pleasant trees underplanted with hellebores and some small cyclamen plants.
The track was well marked at this stage and we made good time getting to the old mining settlement before heading across streams and local tracks towards a village called Brkani.
This is when it all turned to custard.Could we find the village?No.
As we left the mine we came to a t-junction but we had nothing on our instructions on which way to turn so our troubles started here. Later there were other places not noted on the instructions so we were very confused by this stage.It was getting hotter and hotter and lots of stops were needed.Wet face cloths applied to cool us down was a relief from the heat. Thank goodness we had plenty of water with us.

We tried several approaches to find the village as the markings had become very sporadic and we would climb a long way before we realised there were none so back we would go.At one stage Brad had us at the top of the ridge and facing a forestry road going where?At this point I said we were lost and we needed to retrace our steps back downhill.Brad hates downhill but  there was no option so back we went.
At this stage all options had been explored so it was back to where we started.Even then we ended up going in circles and losing our way but eventually detective work paid off and we exited onto the road where we started at 4.30 pm.A long day for a short walk!
We were so knackered that we called for a taxi and after a false start he arrived and rescued us.A jolly Croatian man who had a kindness about him that we liked. He will pick us up tomorrow from Hum.
So eventually we were installed in our lovely hotel,bathed and ready for dinner outside in the mellow evening.I had a fig and truffle soup which was delicious with a very nice sav. to wash it down along with a chicken loin and roasted vegetables from the region.
Tonight I plan to sleep well.......

Day two in the sun

Today we were driven from our hotel in Buje to a hilltop village called Orptalj.This was a shorter walk than we were going to do but because of the weather we decided to take the shorter option.
We had a wander around the old town and wished we had time to sit with the locals under shade umbrellos overlooking the valley below and consuming their morning coffee.

We set off about 9.30am and naturally headed down the wrong pathway.Once we found ourselves in the local tip we retraced our steps and found the right pathway.

Today we walk an old railway line connecting local towns in earlier times.It is rather like the Otago Rail Trail as we saw many bikers but no other walkers along the route.

It was very hot again today and in no time our shirts were wet with sweat and our faces bright scarlet but we soldiered on along a very pleasant trail, thankfully quite a section was through trees and shady so we could enjoy this section.We had a couple of stops before reaching Livade, the truffle capital of Istria where we collapsed under a tree and recovered before finding a cafe and enjoying a cold drink under a canopy of vines.
We spent some time visiting the truffle shop and tasting the samples on hand.I think it is an aquired taste treat but very much a local delicacy in this region.It is served on scrambled eggs,on pasta dishes just about anything.
After leaving Livade we got caught in a thunderstorm.It was a biggie and we took cover under a bridge until the worst was over.It was impressive as the claps echoed around the hill tops and lightening lit up the sky.
We eventually emerged from cover and set off for Motovun which towered above us.We took the road option as it was not clear if the storm was over so we hiked up the hill at high speed. Eventually we arrived at the cemetery on the outskirts of the town and according to our notes we could catch a bus up the last section and avoid the Istrian steps all 1026 of them!
Guess what our decision was? Yes, a nice ride to the top.
The old town walls enclose the town and you enter through century old gates along stone flagged streets going uphill into the square where a wedding was underway as we arrived.
We found our lodgings at the Villa Borgia a nice little place with an amazing view out over the farmlands below.A rest and recovery phase followed before we could explore the town.
We walked around the walls in the setting sun and enjoyed all the tiles and hand crafted doorways,metal decorations over the windows with shutters and stone decorative features.
Later we ate at a restaurant overlooking the valley below.I had wild asparagus and local ham with home made pasta which was delicious.
Time for bed now though as another hot day tomorrow so I need to get mentally prepared.......

Day one of walking the Istria Way

The morning started badly.We slept in.
We had to miss breakast and scurry around to meet our driver who was taking us from our hotel Casa Parenzana to Brtonigla,  a small Hilltown about 20 mins from our hotel and the starting point for the first days walk.The temperature was already warm with 34 degrees mentioned on the news.

The day did not improve as we could not find our way out of the town because the instructions were so obtuse.Eventually we came across the Information Centre who helped us find our way out.Annoying though because Brad thought we should go down the road ahead but it did not match the street name we were given so I retraced steps several times looking for the impossible!!!
By the time we left the town it was getting very hot so we loaded up with water and hoped for some tree shelter along the way.
The countryside is very fertile with rich red soil and a great variety of crops.We passed by vineyards and cultivated fields of crops, olive trees and lots of vegetables.Quite bucolic.
We walked towards a small village of Baredine along a gravel road tthen crossing vineyards and eventually arriving at a nature park called Skarline where we crossed a bridge and climbed uphill for a hard slog in the heat.We were expecting a stop under some trees as it was a nature park but no such luck.We did pass a dead snake on the road so we were not keen to get into the undergrowth.
Eventually we came across a tree which we could crash under.It was midday, the lines mad dogs and English men go out in the mid day sun came to mind! It was hot,hot,hot and we were knackered.
After our break we set off along a gravel road which took us past the village of Baredine and on towards Buje.The track across the fields turned into a downhill walking track which was quite steep but thankfully through trees so we had another stop and prepared ourselves mentally for the climb up to the hill town of Buje.We were hot, sweaty and none too chipper by this stage so a rest at the top before entering the town was needed and at this point we decided to get a taxi from here to the hotel as we did not know if there was any shade on the remaining section and it seemed safer to get back without dehydrating.
We stopped at a cafe for a long cold drink which was so welcome.I managed to tip mine over and break a glass so I was gutted.I decided not to try my hand at anything else and just head for the hotel as soon as possible.
There was an Information Centre in Buje and we made our way there to ask for help, the girl organised a taxi for us and within minutes we were whisked back to our hotel, a cool shower,a makeover and a lie down.Bliss.
Not sure how tomorrow will go heat wise but we have opted for a shorter route as six hours in this heat is not sensible.
Anyway we are underway on our walking trip and we are enjoying the Istrian culture and hospitality to date.
Our dinner tonight was served out doors under the lavender bushes.We had local cheese,olive oils and salad  and Brad tried a local dish with  lamb baked with potatoes in a special oven. I opted for a white chocolate mousse which was lovely.A good ending for our day.

Pula to Bute

We made an early start today on our sightseeing as it was expected to be very hot.By 10.30 it was already 32.5 degrees so rather tiring after a few cool days in London and coming off winter at home.
We explored the old Roman quarters of Pula.The ampitheatre was very impressive and we spent time wandering around the ruins and getting some photos to show the size of the place.
We also found the city gates and the Roman forum.The old part of the town is enclosed in a stone wall,a bit damaged in sections but you still got a good sense of the size of it all.We climbed up to a lookout over the bay and spent some time following the old cobbled streets back to the hotel.
We checked out and spent some time sitting in a local park until our bus left for Pores at 2.15pm.It was the coolest place we could find.
We finally set off on our bus trip to Pores where our tour escort met us and transported us to Bute for our briefing on our walk tomorrow.
Temperatures are very high so hopefully we can start early and beat the worst of the sun.
Our hotel is lovely. It is set in lavender bushes,oleander and olive trees and the dining room is outside.We had truffles and pasta tonight.Another local delicacy along with the local olive oils.Last night we ate stuffed calamari as a local speciality so we are having a few taste treats on this trip.
I anticipate an early night in our very old hostelry with thick stone walls and shuttered windows.It must be a place of extremes as the walls testify.

Travelling Granny is leaving home....

June 17 has come around very quickly.It seems no time since we were booking our trip and looking forward to heading away for our 2016 adventure to Croatia and beyond.

Well the day has arrived for departure and best  friend Lynne deposits me at the airport where we meet up with Brad for our last coffee in NZ.It is not a bad day to leave home,mild and sunny with no wind to provide a bucket ride north.

A bit of a fuss at the check in as the Air NZ assistant said we could not have our luggage booked through to London.I stood my ground and eventually it was sorted out.Apparently the kiosk was the problem.It has to be over- ridden by a real person to enable instructions for check in.
Well, we were finally in the air and off to our destination.The flight plan meant we left Auckland after 11.00 pm and arrived in Shanghai at 6.00 am ready for a day out in the biggest city in the world.
Shanghai is a city of contrasts.The old and modern exist side by side as do the up market and down trodden. It was possible to see old bikes converted with  trailers to cart cardboard and recycling items alongside modern transport systems.
We found people to be very friendly and willing to offer advice or help you when they thought it was needed.Several times we were taken under a residents wing  and given advice about where to get off the metro or how to get somewhere.
We were able to negotiate the metro system successfully and found our way to the Number 9 line via No 2 and then onto the old water town of Qibao on the outskirts of the city.
It took us awhile to find it as I imagined it was a destination which we arrived at once we exited the tube.Not so we found ourselves in the middle of a large urban sprawl with no signage or suggestion of an ancient town.
We explored the area and eventually a young women spoke some English and gave us instructions to the town.
It was extremely hot and humid by the time we arrived at the ornate gates that provide entrance to the town so it was nice to walk alongside the canals and see water flowing.It would not be a place to swim however, a little green for my liking but it was home to a number of junks and water craft. I expected to see rides along the canal but boats were tied up and patrons left waiting.
We wandered along the old paved lanes looking at the traditional crafts,food and stalls selling local produce and fast foods,Chinese style.Eventually the heat got too much for us and we decided to  head for the tube and find cooler conditions at the museum.
We spent an interesting few hours exploring the museum.An impressive building on the edge of the People's Park and cultural district.
Shakespeare was celebrated here with an lovely installation for the 400th birthday of Shakespeare.It was beautifully displayed outside the concert and Opera House.
Later we went and sat in the gardens by the Lotus blossom ponds and watched the world go by for awhile.It was much calmer and not as hot as earlier and we had a violin player entertaining us as we relaxed our tired muscles and absorbed the different family groups out for their Saturday.Young children were having a lovely time out with several generations involved.
Lots of unusual selling stations were set up in this area too.We think it may be selling real estate but not sure.I had read about this was a place where families traded marriage matches with eligible daughters and potential suiters.
All too soon it was time to find the tube and head back to the airport for the next leg of our journey.