A very special lunch...
Friday, 29 July 2016
Memorable dining in Isles de Sorgue
Today we were going to go to a near by town to see the Abbey and some heritage gardens but the girls had had their heads together and it had been decided to take me to this very attractive town built around rivers channeled through it and referred to as the Venice of Provence.
The difference was here the water was clear and running naturally.
I was taken to a Michelin Star restaurant on the banks of the Sorgue River and spoilt by Justine with a four course lunch with Max and her mother, and son Swan.
The setting was very relaxing and a most attentive waiting staff who were very know led able about the food options.
We had such lovely food served with local wine. Each course was amazing. I had to take a photo of each course to show how beautifully presented it was and original. The main course for instance was a most succulent piece of pork served with black pudding sauce, rhubarb and strawberries sounds odd but it worked.
With coffee there were little delectable morals to finish the meal, even though we had had dessert. It took me along time to process all that food.I did not eat until the following day!
We had a very long lunch, just as well I had got out earlier and walked around the river banks to see the famous bridge according to the song, Sur le Pont....and used up a few calories.
Later we had a walk around the town itself which had lots of arty exhibits and old heritage buildings dating back centuries.
There were a lot of antique shops along the river with garden staues, water features and objects de art that were very tempting.Just as well there is a luggage limit.
We had to be back in town by five so I could walk to the railway station close to Justine's place to catch the train. The girls packed me onto the right train and off I went to Marsailles.
The trip back to London was an easy one but it took a long time by plane, train and tube so it was after midnight by the time I reached Number 10. Louise had waited up for me so it was a nice reunion at a very late hour.....
Another day in Paradise. .....
The attractions of Avignon continue. The weather is still very hot and about 34 degrees. Abde was busy painting and doing up Justine's interior rooms so they are undergoing a transformation. He has also plastered the bathroom and the hallway and cleaned out the pool.
We spent a lot of Tuesday hanging out at home, watching Abde work while sipping tea on the outdoor courtyard and discussing what might be a good show to go to.
By the time decisions were made there were no tickets left for that one but we did manage to get seats for Monsieur Choufleuri,a French farce deemed to be suitable for non speaking French persons to enjoy.
We sorted out my train tickets to get to the airport on Wednesday and then had a wander around some of the festival displays.
One installation captured my interest. It was a requiem to the lost sock. Everybody has them!!! They even had a sack hanging at the bottom corner for donations to re-unite the lucky ones.
Anyway the play was great .I could understand little as it was all in French but it followed the farce format so you knew the goodies and the baddies and the father rejecting the suitor etc but what was so good was the music and acting.A top performance and very skilled, a delight to watch.
Justine had a friend, Max coming for dinner so we had Quiche Lorraine, a very French dish and Justine made a cherry dish, Choulet I think it might be so again we ate well and talked until late.
Max is an interesting young woman, once married to a Morrocan but now single with a very handsome son,Swan who was also captivated by Pokemon.I see a cartoon in the ODT so it must be the craze at home too.Max is American but schooled in France and she and Justine are going to run English speaking classes in the new term.
Tuesday, 26 July 2016
Arty Avignon
It has been a lovely end to my European journey.It has been very special to spend time with Justine,Augustin and Abde in this timeless city.
Justine lives on the edge of thee old town city walls,close to the train and rail station and within really easy walking distance of the Pope's Palace and other historic sites.
The day I arrived mid afternoon was hot and windless and we walked into town for lunch at a pop up restaurant site in private home.The annual Avignon summer festival is on here and the city goes into theatre mode. There are pamphlets and posters everywhere advertising all the different performances.
Tourists and French traveller's pour into the city so locals rent out their houses and go off for a holiday to escape the crowds.
Restaurants spring up and people from street theatre groups,music and dance acts hand out leaflets as you walk along the streets inviting you to attend their performance. Some are performing in the squares and cafes as you walk by. It is all very colourful and frenetic.
Sadly most are in French so I am left clueless.Justine thought we might be able to go to a dance or music event tonight.
We enjoyed a lovely lunch in this restaurant run by a friend of Justine- she knows so many people in the city as does Abde, we are stopping and greeting people as we walk,three kisses on the cheek is the custom. I had a jamon and melon dish which was light and lovely for the temperatures.
Justine took us to a her favourite haven a five star hotel where she and a friend meet for tea or a wine to unwind. It was lovely and we sat in the lounge off the terrace and enjoyed cold drinks and some snacks provided by the management.He invited us to go downstairs to look at an exposition they were sponsoring in the cellars.It was a display of dead skeletons and parts of animals arranged in sculptural designs,not my thing but as Justine said it reminded her of Robert when he wanted to be a taxidermist and kept dead animals in the freezer! Poor Liz!
Later we explored around the Pope's Palace and up to the gardens that overlook the city.The craze here is Pokemon Go and Augustin and Adam were enjoying all the action.The craze is so established that when Justine and Augustin went out yesterday to get him a remote battery connector so he could still play on holiday they were sold out.
I call him the Pokemon boy!!! We dropped him off yesterday to go and stay with his grandmother near Nice and then to go sailing with his father.
Justine and I went off and had a lovely lunch in the square at St Remy a place Chris ,Rachel, the Boyes and I visited in 2008.I did not expect to come back so a treat.
We then went to Les Baux where we went to the Carrrieres De Lumiieres to see the Chagall Exhibition in the cave like the Van Gogh one years ago.
It is the most magical experience to walk around in this huge limestone cave with images unfolding to music above ,around and under your feet.It is hard to explain but it is powerful emotionally.It is so cool inside too compared to the sizzling temperatures outside. We were going to go back to St Remy to walk around the shopping area but Justine tripped as we were walking back to the car skinning her leg so we decided to head back home and get it dressed.
Later that evening friends came for dinner and Justine prepared a lovely meal of figs,roquefort cheese wrapped in jamon and grilled in the oven with salads.We sat outside under the grape vine until late eating and drinking a very nice wine with a mixture of French and English language floating around the table.
Pinch me stuff.
The previous evening we had driven out to a beautiful rural retreat on a vineyard for a celebration party for one of Justine's friends in her Ladies of Avignon group. There were two hundred people there and their children had organised it for their parents to celebrate their 50th birthdays and twenty five years married.
People camped there and they had a swimming pool and the meal was laid out on tables under the stars.There were a mixture of Dutch and French people so it was very entertaining.I managed to have a lot of conversations with people despite my lack of linguistic skills. Later there was dancing and socializing until late into the night. The couple celebrating were wine makers so the wine flowed especially a delicious rose which was their specialty wine and beer-the Dutch took the beer preparation very seriously.
This was an amazing night under the stars looking up at a mountain which glistens white at night because of the geology of the region.Mt Vetoux it might be.I need to check these spellings.
It was a very late night by the time we arrived home so I think I slept the sleep of the dead.
Monday, 25 July 2016
Windmills, Picasso and concerts
So much to see and do here but it is a place for ambling, people watching and chilling out.There is no pressure to see and do beyond what you want to do.
We opted for a walk along the canal first thing,well the outer canal which circles the old town and feeds into the smaller canals running through the town.The walk was lovely, a bonus was the four windmills along the canal.I climbed up to one as it had an open door but it was a museum on the history of the flour milling industry.I opted not to pay to go in as it was all in Flemish and it would mean nothing to me but a novel idea.
I rewarded myself with a traditional hot chocolate when we finished the walk several hours later.The best chocolate house was next door so why not?It is served in a large bowl of hot milk and the chocolate is dropped into the milk and stirred until melted.Delicious.
Later we attended a free harp concert in an historic old church which also had a collection of Picasso lithographs and drawings so I went to that as well.I bought an etching of his famous peace dove to take home.
The harpist was amazing as he had a variety of other traditional harp related instruments which he incorporated into the music.All the music he created was of his own composition.
We ate lunch again at the bakery and enjoyed the home made cold raspberry lemonade with a melon and jam on sandwich before heading back to the hotel for a break. Leg rest time I call it.
Our final night was spent at an organ recital at the Cathedral which was amazing.I did not appreciate until then how complex the instrument is and how dexterous you need to be not only with the hands but with the feet.
Later we ate at a locals restaurant down a side street and had a very nice meal finishing with waffles.We had been promising ourselves these since Amsterdam but never seemed to have enough space at the end of the meal for a dessert but tonight it was a priority and worth waiting for.
It was their specialty with icing sugar,ice cream and chocolate sauce.As you can guess this is not losing weight food but when in Rome....
Beautiful Buges
This was an amazing place to finish our travels.I had few expectations on arrival but that was probably a good thing as the old town captured your attention as the cobbled streets led you up through the town from the railway station towards the Market Square.
Our hotel was right on the edge of the square in a quiet street beside a chocolate shop and the best waffle place in town so temptation was an every day occurrence as we left the hotel.
We had got up early the morning we left Amsterdam to visit the Flower Market.I had saved this as a treat but it was not open until after we left town.I wanted to buy Justine tulips from the market but not to be.
We did get to visit the Bequines(not sure of the spelling but they are an order of women who do not take vows but dedicate their lives to god and live as a community).
There are still members living there despite Catholics being banished front the city in earlier times.
It's a quiet place,no talking or photos allowed but beautifully preserved buildings and gardens make finding this space worthwhile.
A similar place we came across in Bruge but it did not mind photos.
The train left Amsterdam at 10.00am so it was an early start to the station and the usual poor sleep as you worry about catching the right train etc but we made it.
We had a change at Brussels for Bruge so about four hours travelling until arriving at Bruges on a lovely afternoon.Not too hot but sunny and very pleasant.
We found the Notre Dame Hotel without too much difficulty and unpacked before heading out for a look around the town.
It is a beautiful place.The Markt Square took my breath away with the Renaissance facades and lofty spires.
We found a delightful cafe with an outdoor courtyard to sit outside for our lunch.It is much more expensive here so we shopped around a bit to find good cafes.I had an avocado toasted sandwich equivalent with pickled vegetables which was delicious and Brad got a bowl for her coffee so she was happy.
Later we found our way around the town and attended an outdoor concert in the Markt Square at night after dinner.
It was the Belgium National Holiday so great festivities and many people celebrating a day off.A nice atmosphere to come upon.
The crowd were singing along with songsheets in English and Flemish just like at the wedding.Old and young were having a lovely evening,some were dancing but no signs of the drunk and disorderly.I am not sure what they do with them!!!Perhaps they have a holiday somewhere else!
Thursday, 21 July 2016
Art,history and public gardens in Amsterdam.
A beautiful morning dawns and we are determined to make full use of the day.An early breakfast before heading off to queue for the Anne Frank museum as advised by the information centre who said to get there before nine or earlier but not so.It appears only online reservations are accepted now and you cannot queue until after 3.30 pm.Well you can queue earlier but you cannot enter before three thirty.
A dilemma. What to do? Go back into the Dam Square and join a free walking tour or hike around to the Van Gogh Museum and chance the same rules apply.
I took a chance which was the best option and managed to get a ticket for the first intake after a short queue.Not so bad when it is not as hot as the afternoon one.
I loved the Van Gogh Museum.It was complementary to the one we went to in Barcelona and it also linked to the time we went to St Remy where he was treated for his depression and eventually died by committing suicide.We also saw a light and sound show in France that highlighted his art in an emotional context. His was a huge influence on the art world and still today his work resonates with people.
This exhibition also linked the influences of family and friends to his life and the jewel was seeing the best of the Sunflowers paintings.
I spent several hours here and then walked to the Vondelpark Gardens for some shade and green spaces.I was going to meet Brad for lunch in the park but she finished early and headed back to the hotel.
I hiked across the canals back to the Anne Frank huis and joined the queues stretching around the block.We had to wait until 3.30pm before there was anybody admitted but time passed of course and by Four I was inside and exploring the world Anne lived in for two years of her life.A very emotional place and seeing the graphic reminders of the concentration camps I saw last year it was hard to understand humanity.
In her father's words," To build a future you have to know the past."
What a pity we have not learned from the past.
Eventually arrived back at the hotel about five for a rest before drinks on the canal at a Greek cake where we had pita bread and dips as the sun set.A nice way to celebrate our last night in Amsterdam.....
So glad to escape without injury!Cycles,trams and cars come from every direction and you need your wits about you at all times.
The bikes are wonderful here,all shapes and sizes of bikes, no fashion stakes here,they are a transporting vehicle ridden by all ages.
Wednesday, 20 July 2016
Exploring the old city of Amsterdam
What a lovely day I have had today. It started with breakfast where we were sitting at street level,windows open,sun shining and watching the world go by as we ate our eggs and croissants.
Later it was followed by a Hop on Hop off bus tour and a boat trip around the city sights. I started early so it was not very crowded at the beginning but by lunch time the boat was very crowded and it was difficult to take photos because heads kept popping up when you least wanted them to.
I really enjoyed the boat cruise around the canals with a moving spectacle of fascinating styles of housing alongside the canals.The house boats were fascinating too.I thought it would be a cheap form of housing but not so.The boats are all connected to sewerage and pay rates and water taxes which put this form of living into the well off fraternity.Some have been architecturally designed and a lot come with a motor boat as well as outdoor living,BBQ and a few pets on board as well.
The tour went out to sea briefly and we mixed with the cruise ships briefly before heading back to safer waters. The bridges are a feature too and a variety of locks and systems operate the water levels to keep the system safe for boats.
The old houses along the canals are beautiful too,all feature decorative embellishments and heritage colours.Apparently there are very strict planning laws here and if you own one of them you cannot alter anything with out permission.
I did a tour of the diamond cutting factory where we saw operaters polishing the stones with diamond dust and producing gems for the international market.We also were taken into the show room to see the settings used for selling diamonds and how they were classified for sale. Not in my league though.I had to avoid temptation big time.
The old city is easy to explore on foot and the tour groups cannot take buses into the old part of the town so if there is time I might do a walking tour tomorrow.It will depend on how long the queues are for the Ann Frank museum and the Van Gogh.
I spent the afternoon at the Rijksmuseum looking at Rembrant's,The Jewish Bride ,Vermeer's The Kitchen Maid, and the very famous The Night Watch (1642) as well as Rembrant's portrait of a married couple which is shared with the Louvre and on show here so that was a coup.There were other memorable treasures on display too such as the Delft ware and some impressive dolls houses ( on the grand scale).
Brad had spent a lot longer here than I but we met for lunch at the cafe and shared favorites. Before we left we managed a visit to the outdoor gardens where there was a sculpture display by Peroine (???) of trees in all shapes and in varying stages of conservation.
Later in the evening we tried out the tram system to go to what we were told was a free concert at the Concert Theatre but sadly a bit misinformed so wandered along the canals again to find an authentic place to eat. I had a hot pot dish similar to bubble and squeak and Brad had a calves liver dish - very hearty fare.The beers are good here.
Finally time for bed but it is so hot in our cell I am not sure if it will be possible to sleep however an excellent day and more to come....
Monday, 18 July 2016
Hanging out in Salzberg
Our last day in Austria today.We left Bad Goisern after breakfast by train in the rain. We had about an hour to wait at Bad Ischl before catching the 150 bus to Salzberg. It was dreary so no point in a last look around the town of handmade Austrian shoes.
The rain did not stop so by the time we arrived at the Holiday Inn in Salzberg we were wet ducks and keen for refuge.
Even if we had not had to shorten our walking holiday I imagine we would not have walked anyway as it was pouring when we left the mountains.We have still to see the top of the mountains or even where the cable car alights.
We had a trip to the railway station to get our bearings for tomorrow as we catch a train at 8.00am for Amsterdam,with changes at Munich and Frankfort before arriving at six in Amsterdam.
We were a bit concerned about the change overs at the stations and how long it would take but the information man says it is a piece of cake.
Linch was in a little bakery which served delicious smoothies with frozen strawberries plus a toasted sandwich with ham and cheese.It is odd how you crave for some toast when you are away travelling in places that do not serve up the old standby.
Later we went for a walk to rediscover the Mirabelle Gardens which we loved on our last visit.Still beautiful but they have taken a battering with the storms last week.We were amazed at how many more people were visiting the gardens.Tourists much more in evidence than we remember.
We took a stroll along the old town and revisited Mozart's home and museum before hiking back to the hotel for a rest.
Sunday, 17 July 2016
Finale
At last a day without rain. Mercy. It is our last day walking too so we can celebrate at least the joy of dry clothes although it was pretty cold at Hallstatt.
The walk was relatively easy today.We started out from the hotel about eight thirty and we followed a trail along the river and through farming communities. Hay is cut with a long bladed knife and stacked by the houses.The houses are all very neat and well maintained though and wood,kindling and various grades of wood if different thicknesses are stacked around the houses. Woodpiles are a work of art here.
We had lovely views of the lake with amazing reflections ,not a bit of wind to ruffle the surface.
It was a very pleasant walk along a very easy track,well marked and not steep although we were expecting a very hard climb at the end where you climb up to the salt mine and come down the funicular. (What a pity the track was closed and we were unable to test our fitness).
The Brine Pipeline Trail has historical significance because it follows the old salt pipeline leading from the salt Mountain in Hallstatt to Lake Traunsee and is the world's oldest pipeline established in 1607.The length is a total of forty km but we only walk a section of it today.
As it turned out we were not able to complete the walk today because the bridge across the gorge was closed off until the end of 2016 so the alternative was to walk down to the road and catch a bus to Hallstatt for the last four km.
The option was to catch the bus into Hallstatt so we waited for some time before one arrived so we were well cooled off by the time we arrived in the town.Just as well we did not walk in as the road led through a tunnel and I am sure they would not like two kiwis strolling in through the portals.
The town is beautiful but very crowded.Lots of tourists today so it is the place to be.
We were so cold it was a hot drink and something to eat on our minds rather than the history of salt that was an attraction here.
We had a delicious carrot and ginger soup with coffee in a cafe in the centre of the town.The most amusing moment of the trip took place here as Brad locked horns with a Prussian autocrat over her coffee choice and where to pay the bill.Highly entertaining to watch and we retreated like naughty school girls after he insisted on us returning to the table to pay,standing his ground in the face of a stoic Brad.
We did stroll along the promenade and enjoyed the picturesque houses tumbling down the steep hillside with their colourful porches,hanging baskets and shutters.It was picture perfect but cold so we decided not to visit the mine where the man preserved in salt was discovered in recent times or see the exciting things promised in the salt museum but catch the next ferry across the lake to where the commuter train transports you back to Bad Goisern.
The train trip was very good as it took you through some little towns on the opposite side to where we had walked today.
So here we are back in Bad Goisern.Not a place of any note really but we have a comfortable hotel and it does have a great coffee place so all is well.
Friday, 15 July 2016
Rained in at Bad Ischl
Rain greeted us when we woke this morning. Rain stayed with us all day apart from a short break when we went outside to visit the Kaiser Villa about five.That had shut and before long the rain was heavier than ever. The clouds are black and overhang the town.The mist is right down so difficult to get a sense of the size of the mountains.Unseen since we arrived.
We checked out the river levels as it looks dangerous to me.Well over the normal banks and carrying a lot of water.We are supposed to be waking along a river bank trail tomorrow so I am wary of starting out without a clearance from the tour group. We are anticipating a bus trip tomorrow instead to Bad Goisen.
It was our rest day today so we had a late breakfast and enjoyed lingering over the toast instead of racing to get our bags packed for the couriers.
We had a wander into town to check out English books for Brad and the Thermal baths for me.
I spent a few hours in the thermal resort here.A big covered heated pool with a spa plus all other services on offer to make you look younger,feel younger,more active.Massage in umpteen different options are available but I settled for a swim in the heated pool followed by a soak in the spa.There were loungers to lie on around several floors so relaxation is well catered for.It actually was a good way to spend the afternoon.
The town caters for tourists who enjoy the spa town famous because of the association with the Austrian Royalty.Sissi and Franz Joseph made this a special place and we had a coffee and cake in their famous restaurant,Juane this morning.
World War 1 has its origins here too because Count Ferdinand was assasinated by a Serb,said to be here but we suspect that to be a porky for the tourists.