Exploring the sights of Velika Turnova.

A great start to the day,sunshine and warm temperatures promised to make this a very pleasant day to explore the town.
We found out about a free tour run by students starting at 11.00 am so we decided to give it a go, how pleased we were as we met some nice people and our guide Alex was very knowledgeable and gave us a great introduction to Bulgarian history and specific events affecting this town and it's residents over the ages . It is one of the oldest towns as well as the capital and residence of the first Tzars of Bulgaria until along came the Romans who established Plovdiv as the capital due to its strategic position
We set off to find the Information Centre and meet up with the guide . I was wondering how we would survive the heat in the middle of the day but Alex had it well planned and assembled us in shady places and seemed to avoid the steep streets and flights of steps Brad and I struggled with on our tour.
This is a town of heights,houses tumble down the hillside and cobbled streets run upwards without any apparent plan,steps lead into nooks and crannies and signposts point in general directions rather than specific places,very confusing to the visitor.

Our tour led us around the key sights around the old town mentioned in the guide book especially the Tsarvets fortification which takes several hours to look around  and the Essen monument which we can see from our Window . We also saw the best place to watch the evening light and sound show which turned out to be spectacular . Amazing effects  of these lights playing across the old fortress ruins and telling the story of the history of the town through musical effects. They do not do it every night any longer because of the cost so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. We had to wait until after nine thirty but it was worth it.

We spent some time doing some shopping as the hand crafts were done by authentic craftspeople in a particular place Alex took us to so we bought some pottery and small things to stow away in our pockets.

Later in the day when it got a little cooler we walked up to the Tsarvets site,a massive fortress and castle dating back to the 2nd century . It is in a very strategic position and over the centuries its use had changed depending on who  the vanquished or victorious were . We climbed all over the site and enjoyed the views and historic significant of the place . Not a lot of information  in English  to help us but some visuals helped.
Dinner and bed followed . Our day had been very active and it was nice to relax over a pleasant meal of salads and pita bread at our favorite restaurant.

Velika Turnova here we come!

Up at 5.30 am this morning to catch the earliest bus out of Sozopol in order to catch the connecting bus from Burgas to Velika Turnova,apparently there is only one a day so we can not miss it. Fortune shone on us and we arrived at West Station in time to catch the bus . Another anxious moment as we realized other traveller's had tickets booked but we were too late as the ticket office closed just as we arrived . It was a very small bus so there was some nervous  moments as we waited to see if there was room for us . Every seat was taken by the time we got on so we were lucky . Bad luck for those further up the line who wanted a ride,they were ignored and left to wait another day.
We had one stop at Stiven for a coffee and rest rooms so not like our earlier bus trip where stops were frequent and sociable!

We had an interesting trip , four and a half hours through vine yards and sunflowers again as well as some high passes to get across the Balkan Range. The bus had to pace itself behind donkey carts towing  trailers stacked with hand cut hay and loaded up with whanau . Quite a sight as we passed by.
We arrived in Velika Turnova at mid day and caught a taxi to our hotel, such a pretty place , picture perfect really and well positioned close to the old town on one of the oldest streets in the town.  We had a great view over the river and a spacious comfortable room . What more could traveller's wish for
The heat is fierce here today so took a break inside before venturing out to get our bearings and find the Seraphain House which was only open on Tuesday so we made that our priority . It told a story of the  domestic life of wealthy Bulgarians before the communist era.
Later we had a very pleasant Italian meal at a restaurant with a great view over the river before heading back to the hotel ready for tomorrow's delights.

Black Sea adventures

A beautiful day greets us and we make the most of our breakfast in the outdoor area by the pool . A real cup of English Breakfast tea today,bliss!Most of the tea to date has been chai, herbal and tolerable without milk but not quite as good as the English model.
We headed off to find the old town and as we thought it was right there under our noses,it is amazing what a wrong turn can do to the days outcomes.
We had a visit to the old port area and found were the cruise boats were and what they were offering . Ten lev for an hours evening cruise so we put that on the plan for later in the day,we planned to see the National Youth Dance Competition too,it was a free show and open to the public . It show cased all the local  folk dances of the regions along with some more modern dances and very entertaining.
The old Roman remains and the unique fishing houses were worth our wait . The old cobbled streets and winding pathway scaled into all sorts of fascinating places . The houses are three stories and the bottom floor was for their fishing gear while living above were the family . The upper floor stretched out over the streets nearly touching the  house across the street . The upper stories are in wood and engraved with symbols to wish the sailors safe passage . There were lots of little chapels here and we found a restaurant overlooking the sea to have a meal tonight before going back for a break from the heat.
Later we went down to the beach and lay in the sun,swam and people watched the afternoon away . Magic,I had to keep pinching myself that I was really there.
Later we went on our cruise out around the coastline and we saw the mussel farms off shore and some of the old fortifications and lighthouses on the headland . The night air was so balmy no wrap required just sit on deck and enjoy the scenery.
Back on shore we had another stroll around the local streets and watched the families enjoy the attractions.
Lots of the places have become guest houses and shop fronts for souvenirs as the town has become a place to visit on the coast but it has a laid back atmosphere and plenty of good relics and things of interest to see,such as an old authentic fishing caravelle housed in a shelter and Roman fortifications under restoration.
We bought some traditional Bulgarian weaving and rose cream from the Balkan Rose stand before heading back for the meal overlooking the bay,lights twinkling and moonshine bathing the beach.
Another lovely day in Bulgaria.

Sozopol,the place in the sun.

What a good choice for our rest and relaxation phase,Sozopol offers much variety and interest for travellers and we enjoyed our stay here, maybe even wishing we had been able to extend it to take advantage of the coastal trips available on the Black Sea and more time on the beach.
Our day started  early because we had to catch the 9.15 am train to Burgas from Plovdiv and being worry warts we needed to check out the railway station to find out how to book tickets . It is quite a big station with very little English signeage to help out so having time to check it out was important . We were a bit early but met an American traveller, Zander who like us was going to Sozopol so we shared our life stories and then passed in the night as he was staying out of the town near a beach resort . That is the way of this travel mode,meet and greet, enjoy and move on, never to be seen again.
Out train trip was uneventful although all Bulgarians we met were disparaging of the rail system,the equipment was pretty old,covered in graffiti and rather unloved looking but it worked and we arrived too find the bus to Sozopol left at a bus station nearby so a quick transfer and we were on our way,another 40 minutes down the coast before we arrived in the old seaside resort town.
We found our hotel quite easily,charming and very hospitable hosts made us welcome and we were unpacked and away! Our rooms were fresh and the beds made up with yellow and white towels and spreads so looked sunny and inviting the minute we opened the door.
The hotel had outdoor seating,a pool and lovely plantings around the grounds all giving a shady haven after a day in the sun . It is very warm here so sitting outside until late is a treat rather than an obligation.
Lots to see and do here . The vibe is evident the minute you walk down the street . Lots of tat too but all part of the atmosphere . I paddled my feet in the Black Sea and promised myself a swim tomorrow . We explored the market area where all the food stalls were located and went for a walk to find the old town but got hopelessly lost and spent about three hours walking around the headland looking at opulent houses,interesting but not any different than anywhere else in the world really.
By the time we found our way back it was getting dark and time for tea so we went and sat in the market and ate take away  kebabs and watched the revellers prepare to party the night away . There was music and festivities on every block but no evidence of unsafe stuff so we just enjoyed being part of it.
Sleep was on the agenda so we returned to our lovely room and hit the sack.

Plovdiv

What a treat to arrive at our hotel and be able to step out into the streets of the prettiest town so far . The name Hotel Romantic set the scene as we arrived,a pretty pink National Revival building set off the main street in a traffic free location . Inside it was not quite up to the exterior but a lovely helpful crew made it a  nice place to stay . They did offer a larger room but we were only there for a night so squeezed in.
We did visit Plovdiv on our way to Orehova so we did get a taste of its treasures then as our guide took us along a two hour walk through the main points of interest so we were able to retrace our steps and linger at places of interest such as the Roman Amphitheatre which we explored and the Forum on top of the old town . We traversed the cobbled streets twice that night in order to see a rehearsal there for an Opera . It was magic sitting above the Forum looking down on the performance,listening to beautiful music and singing under the stars even if we did not know the opera.
We dined well at a traditional restaurant on shopska salad,chicken and lemon cello to finish . Later that night we treated ourselves to an ice cream at the Dreams Cafe and watched a bit of the soccer,reminiscent of Cologne four years ago before retracing our steps back to the hotel.

Walking the Rodopi Mts over and our next adventure begins.....

Up at 5.30 ready for a 6.00 am pick up . Vasco was to be our driver for our trip to the railhead at Dobriniske some two hours twenty minutes away from Trigard . This was new for our driver and he was not sure of the way so had been on Google and got it all sorted but it was a good trip through another part of the Rhodopi mountains towards the Rila monastery and Melik, apparently lovely places to travel to but not enough time to see everything we need to move along.
Sadly we arrived to find out the narrow gauge rail trip was not to be, the station manager told us the  train had had a crash and we would have to go on the bus instead at 10.20 am. A real disappointment but these things happen . There did not seem to be any information of this anywhere but people were working on a bridge further along so maybe that was the reason.
We sat in the sun,a couple of cinderallas waiting for our coach outside the railway station,another rustic vehicle turned up,hardly a coach
but it got us there with many stops along the way . This travel experience  was interesting in itself as bus drivers have stops,dismount have a smoke , talk to their friends as they require . The bus conductor laboriously hand wrote our tickets on the bus,
you cannot book ahead so it is a time warp.
The scenery was interesting and we passed Bulgaria's highest mountain,Mt Virhen in the Perin Ranges, also the site of skiing facilities for tourists because it featured a ski tow.
We  passed through Bolovo,known as the toilet capital of the world for the production of toilet paper . Great place to be caught short.
We also passed through Bransko,Velilgrad,spa towns along the route and arrived in Sempteveri as planned for out train trip to Plovdiv.
An old dunger of a train pulled up and on we climbed for an hours trip to Plovdiv . More about this lovely place later.

From grim to great.

The day started badly . I woke up rather miserable and out of sorts,must be all the rich food from dinner last night so not too keen on a 750 m climb planned for that morning.
We changed tack and sat in the sun for awhile and caught up on a few things like topping up my phone card which proved more difficult than expected but got there in the end . Problem solving never has been my strong suit. The hotel is lovely and set in a rustic location so no problem enjoying some down time . We have been busy since the walk started.
Plan b involved us setting out about midday with a driver who would take us into the Chariste Lakes and we would walk back out to the road where he would collect us.
Our driver turned up on time in a rusting jeep obviously many years of service on the clock . Vasco was his name and very personable . He was a student of electricity at Sofia in the term time and lived locally . We met his grandmother as we passed through the village,he stopped for a chat and she had the gait and demeanor of a very elderly person but probably younger than us.
What an exhilarating ride we had,bouncing along gravel roads,hanging onto the bars of the roof cover for safety . It was as good as a gym workout!
At times we coasted down rough slopes with the motor cut, re -running some sections where it was too steep,fording rivers and generally attacking the terrain with intent . Verso was a good driver and enjoyed himself but it would take little to come to grief along the way.
We stopped at a few points of interest such as a stone tunnel and the first of the lakes which turned out to be the most scenic of the seven to take photos.
The rest of the lakes we would not term them as such but they were more like storage dams but the trip was worth it.
Vesco dropped us off at the top lake,pointed us towards a rough track in the grass and waved us goodbye. We were on our own.
We anticipated a long trip back fording rivers etc but he had given us a scenic drive-turbo style on the way there  so our walk back was a peaceful one alongside the river and on fairly level surfaces once we scrambled down the mountain pathway . My toe is not happy with this trip. Happily it was not too long before we negotiated the last perpendicular section and found our local road leading out of the lake area.
Lots of lovely wildflowers to interest us and many varieties of butterflies flit about in stony areas . We did get a light shower if rain our first in Bulgaria . Later that night heavy rain prevented our evening walk.
After about two to three hours we emerged at the main road to find Verso waiting for us as arranged . Voila,our communication is improving..

Trigard and The Devils Throat Cave

Today our host transported us from Shiroka Luka to Trigard . A trip of about an hour through some stunning scenery,dreadful roads and some risky driving. It was a trip in silence as he did not speak any English and we did not have any Bulgarian to bridge the gap but he chatted on his phone,drank his coffee and drove like a local until we arrived at our hotel in Trigard some ten kilometers from the village.
Driving in Bulgaria seems safe enough but road surfaces are terrible so drivers swerve out to avoid potholes and then face oncoming traffic . Fortunately the traffic is not heavy  so evasive action seems to work for them,a bit unnerving in the back seat.
We were escorted to our rooms and made very welcome by our host who spoke some English but who did not seem to know much about us apart from our accomodation and food so we called up Simeon who sorted it out .A  rather striking character soon appeared,clad in cowboy regalia and sporting rather weather beaten features he did not speak any English but he was to take us to the cave which we had passed before the village . Simon gave us instructions to go with him and a tour would be arranged . Not sure how I felt about this as underground is not my choice but decided to such it up and at least try.
The cave is Impressive,the passageway in has been hand made but once in the chamber can house two cathedrals and is know for a large endangered bat population which have their roosting spots high above . Not many left at this time of the year but we did see some.
The history of the cave is linked to the legend of Orpheus,here he was said to have looked back as rescued his love which resulted in her plunging to her death never to be seen again . There is a drawing of him on the cave walls.
The guide gave us all this in a potted history plus more recent details of how despite various methods people had not been able to find the water exit,this is a major mystery.
We survived the experience and then had to climb 600 steeps to the exit . That was a quick heart check up.
Our guide increased by another one who transfered us up the road for a walk to a village further on called Yagonda.
This entailed a very sharp climb up the side of the road above the cave itself . My lungs were gasping by the time I got to the top and Brad was about to have a tantrum as I called from above there was more to come even though there was another road passing by . No we were at the top but it was a great place for our lunch break and recovery phase 2.
The rest was very pleasant walk in the forest following red markers which gave us a false sense of safety as they changed direction and we no longer seemed to be in the right place . We backtracked but could not decide on where we were although I felt we were in the right direction . It was a huge relief to come across the village some hours later I can assure you.
We came down into a pretty rustic little village with a mosque and people making hay with pitch forks and transporting the hay on  old wooden trailers,horse driven with all the family atop . This is a pomak village, Bulgarian Muslims who were discriminated badly under Communism but now are rebuilding their mosques and way of life  so women wear scarves covering their heads but not Chardors or burka . They seem very poor to us but always seem cheerful when we greet them.
Our ride arrived and we had a pretty rough trip back across some terrain reminiscent of going to Mace town!
It was nice to get back to our hotel and chill out before dinner . We are very comfortable here and a lovely rural aspect,the sheep and cows are bought back from the pastures late in the day,cow bells and all.

Another day,another place!

Well we are on the move again . After a wonderful nights sleep and a breakfast of  a type of French Toast served with compote and cheese. We had the company of our orphan friends who downed glasses 8 milk and large bread rolls before heading away to their summer school activities.
Today we are driving from Shiroka Luka courtesy of our hosts along the Panorama Road where they will drop us off and we walk back to the village.
The map reading skills were a lot easier today as we walked for two hours along the road which was on the top of a ridge and gave us some lovely views across the valleys . We started descending then and ate our lunch in a little chapel by a spring, thoughtfully providing us a seat in the sun so we could take in the view.
Our destination was to the birthplace of Orpheus in a village called Gela where Stephanie was to collect us so we had plenty of time we thought to take in the significance of this place . The music will always have a new significance.
First of all we passed through Stickel, the highest village in Bulgaria and little else of note . What a desolate place,the main street was dusty and potholes without a whole building in sight . I took a photo of the prettiest thing I could find there,a lovely old rose climbing a fence . Pleased to leave that place . We passed a man with a pitchfork turning the hay and two boys on bikes and that was Stickel.
Gela was an improvement but little to see in such a noteworthy birthplace so we were ready to catch our car back to Shiroka Luka so we could explore the village before tea,have a drink at a bar and enjoy our meal.

Orehova to Shiro ka Luka

We are getting into the swing of life on the hoof!
Our muscles are hardening and we are getting into the swing of six hour walks up hill and down Dale. Why did I think I would not need my stick which travelled all the way to London and got left in Louis flat . Thankfully our hostess gave me a mountain stick to take with me and boy did I need it . Negotiating rocky trails provided some security from twisted ankles and worse!
Our day began with a pile of thick pancakes, beautifully cooked with compote and thick yoghurt to go with them .
Then it was off in the car along a goat track termed a road to another mountain village called Zagundo,very rustic and impoverished by our standards but everyone we meet is welcoming and friendly . Dober den gets a cheery response and when help is needed they do their best to please . Lovely cheerful people too,lots of laughter and they enjoy sitting outside in the evenings for a chat with their neighbour's.
The roads here are a challenge.

Sofia to Plovdiv to Orehova

Great day to start our travels as the sun is shining and our driver arrives on time to start our adventure . Simon is his name pronounced See me on . It is a popular name here as he said when even the cats were called Simon.
We had a hearty breakfast but just as well as we did not eat again until after six as our guide walked the legs off us in Plovdiv and again at the Bransko Monastery.
We drove about two hours on the main arterial motorway linking Sofia to the Black Sea along the Balkan mountain range for 750 km so lots of forests and agricultural scenery to see . The fields of Sunflowers were spectacular and gave the landscape a golden hue.
We got to Plovdiv be for midday and set off on foot to see this amazing town,second largest in Bulgaria . We visited the old heritage part of the town, firstly seeing the national revival buildings and then the remains of the  Roman amphitheater which seated three thousand people for completions before climbing further up into the Roman Theatre still used for opera performances today . The National School of Music is adjacent to the site . so much to see here and our time does not allow us to go inside the Ethnographical  Museum,we walked around the courtyard and looked at the craftspeople working on a wide variety of handcrafts.
This town was built between three hills in a strategic position so the Romans could command the region so fortifications are still evident and one hillside is an art installation done by local art students telling the history of the people who formed the history of Bulgaria . fascinating to climb around this site and the old Roman walls atop the city itself.
After two hours walking in very warm temperatures we set off for Bransko Monastery, this is the second largest community in Bulgaria and we were able to go inside and see the interior of the church. Seating is only for old people,the rest stand for the service . Amazing gold patterning and detail although aging now and little money to repair it. A priest took an interest in us and gave us flowers when he knew we were from New Zealand.
Onwards now to Orehova,a small village perched on the side of a mountain and very folksy . Timber houses overhanging the roads with slate tiles and many in a decrepit state . Lots of pot plants and gardens are  colorful and lots of fruit and vegetables grown . We were left here by Simon with our hostess who did not speak any English so some entertaining moments as she loved to talk and was very friendly to us . We were worn out trying to decipher her stories . A great cook too,we had wonderful local dishes on our stay,Lovely salad,fish and stuffed pepper with rice and potatoes followed by a fresh melon salad and compote on our first day.
After a walk around the village we headed for bed but.....A very hard resting place I have to say but exhaustion is a blessing at times like this.

Orehova and the Wonder Bridges

OMG.
I had this lovely idea we would be walking along rivers admiring the wild flowers and seeing charming scenes of village life Balkan style.
Well the reality was far from this . Our stamina was duly tested as the day unfolded but we emerged victorious if a trifle battle worn.
Our day began with this delicious dish called Branista a filo and egg confection light as a feather and a large packed lunch just in case we had a space left.
Our hostess and her grand daughter drove us to the area known as the Wonder Bridges,amazing rock structures high in the hills above the villages.
Brad and I spent ages trying to decipher the map we were given by Simon but all so unfamiliar we were apprehensive,plus our written instructions were a little strange as they were translated by non English speaking people .
The hostess left us to it after we had admired the bridges so onwards and upwards it proved . We climbed high above the tree line through many types of fir trees of all hues,pastures of meadow flowers and views from a dizzying height it seemed . The way was sometimes rocky and rough underfoot so I was glad of my stick . You need to be a mountain goat to survive here.
Downhill was the biggest challenge and the three hour hike on paper turned into six as we negotiated our way down glacial tracks gutted by rain and obstacles designed to impede our progress.
Eventually we staggered into our guest house to be revived by a shower and another lovely meal of kebabs and a potato bake,salad and Tiramasu to finish us off.

Sofia,Bulgaria

Arrived into Sofia just as the sun was setting and the landscape reflected a yellow wash of color across vast fields of crop and pasture, fringed with low forested hills in the distance  and cumulus cloud overhead. I said to Brad that we could be arriving into Dunedin Airport but without the sea view.

We were met by an English speaking quide who took us to our hotel in the city -bright pink facade and six stories high called The Renaissance Hotel. Pink must be their color of choice as the Wizz Air flight we flew in with had pink markings so we are in the Pink!

We shed our layers of clothing thankfully once we got inside,to get our suitcases through we had to wear the extra layers . Brad nearly faced a big bill but we stuffed her bag in and passed inspection.
The customs check is very perfunctory but we had nothing to declare so we were happy to escape quickly into the lobby area and look for our taxi  man.

We set forth to check out the night scene as food was a priority,a long time since my bread roll at Luton . We did a circuit of the streets around the hotel but eating places were rare until we came across a side street with an Italian Restorante which served up lovely authentic food served by a Bulgarian women who said she did not speak English but she coped with our orders very well . We had an appetizer of prosciutto and fromage with bread and oil followed by ravioli and tomato sauce . Delicious fare washed down with a Bulgarian beer.

First impressions of the city are favorable, some interesting public buildings and an array of churches from denominations as diverse as possible Jewish synagogue,Muslim mosques and Christian churches line the streets up to our hotel,The parliament building and government offices were well preserved but streets are rough in parts and lots of empty shops,public spaces,graffiti all tell a take of poverty and lack of amenities . It will be interesting to see more in our travels tomorrow.
Well it is time for a read and a good night's sleep so signing off from Bulgaria.

Loseley Park Garden

Loseley Park has been the home of the More -Molyneux aux family for five hundred years before gifting it to the National Trust . It was built in 1560 and the walled garden was laid out in the 16th Century.
We arrived just in time for lunch in the Tithe Hall, fresh chunky sandwiches again and served inside on big round tables, perfect for conversation . I am starting to get to know a few of the conference goers now.
We had a speaker after lunch on saving collections of plants and the work going into this project in the UK and beyond.
Then we were let lose into the garden,especially the walled garden a,though I did make time to walk down to the duck ponds and along the moat walk which was on the south side of the garden designed to have  lovely views across to the flower meadow on the other side . Water lilies were out and kingfishers were in attendance so a nice area to browse through.
What can I say about this garden? It is quite special and some parts particularly so.

I loved the white garden, as beautiful as any I have seen anywhere. It may be the time of the year but everything was so healthy,well grown and robust and the arrangement of the plants was superb . The water feature and design stood out for me . White roses,hostas,hebes,hydrangeas and masses of perennials made it a special place . The sound of water running and the soft light on the silvery shades gave it an atmosphere of tranquility and romance . One could imagine the owners of the house strolling here with a pims in hand to enjoy the ambiance together.

The rose garden was a mixture of old and newer roses although it says in the literature they are old roses.This got the rosarians going.
This award winning garden was a birthday present from Mike to his wife Sarah and is planted out with over one thousand old fashioned roses, edged with box hedging and enclosed in the taller hedging and pillar roses to give it height and interest. I noted the lack of companion plantings which had given the other gardens such depth and color and I think the roses did not have the health and vigor of Mottisfont . Here they did not under plant but the plantings were quite dense . The rugosa rose was popular here with lots of varieties I could identify . Bonica was a more modern rose with a delightful color and  albas moss roses,bourbons,gallicas damask and English roses took your eye as the paths followed around the symmetrical plan of the garden . In the centre was a gazebo covered in a white climber and providing the centre point to the design.

The legendary plantswoman, Gertrude Jekyll had a passion for the place and she had a border named after her as she had a hand in planning the garden originally but not a lot of her work still can be seen today but the area reflects the structure,style and design she would have used .

There is also the largest wisteria vine I have ever seen reaching along the brick wall and covering it from top to toe in the area where the tennis court was once.

The herb garden too was a delightful space and sadly my battery had run out so no photos of this part of the garden and it's culinary and medicinal plants designed to keep the family in good health.
Vegetables and fruit also had their own space within the walls and all the produce goes to the house for catering at the cafe.
The afternoon was coming to an end and we had a final cup of tea with biscuits before climbing back aboard our coach and driving back to the Holiday Inn at Winchester.
And so ended a delightful conference,new friends and new gardens to talk about maybe better to dream of as they are on a scale beyond most of us to manage . Thank goodness for the National Trust . Amen......

Gardens to die for!

Wednesday 25th June was another beautiful day for our garden rambles, the sun was shining and after a substantial English breakfast we set off by coach to Hinton Ampner. Ever heard of it? No I imagine not, but let me introduce you to a very special garden run by the National Trust in the vicinity of Cheriton, not far from the centre of Winchester.

This garden was introduced to us by the head gardener, John.D.Wood who spoke at the first day of the conference and gave us a potted history of the place and the improvements  since he arrived about six years ago . Previously he had worked at Mottisfont under John Wood and absorbed the master's touch. He met us at the bus and gave us a conducted tour of the property. Well he tried but people got distracted and wandered off to explore the various walk ways and paths which lead into surprises and vistas across the farmlands.

This garden was the vision of Ralph Dutton,also known as Lord Sherburne who designed and established the garden after his own plans and ideas . Today you can enjoy the vision he created by taking long walks leading to vistas across the Hampshire farmlands . He constructed a haha so that animals could graze up to his lawns yet seemingly connected to the view . He was also keen on topiary and in front of the house there is a long terrace where his art can be observed .

The rose garden he designed for his mother but the roses did not flourish , they disliked the climate and soils and eventually died off. Mr Dutton was a man of steel and he persevered against the odds until he found the roses that tolerated the area and today you can see old and some quite rare roses happily blooming in various parts of the garden.
A feature was the vibrant ramblers tumbling from huge trees or climbing up supports cleverly placed at the foot of shrubs to encourage their growth upwards. Klifsgate,Wedding Rose,Lykkefund were very special and the scent was delicious.
I am not sure of the spelling but r. Sins Wilsonnia is a rare rambler rose with huge clusters of white blooms and massive leaves for such a rose.It may be the only one in the UK today. Very scented and quite beautiful.

There were other collections too of beautiful Salvia,Viburnum,grasses and dahlias . One long bed of a rose called,A Whiter Shade of Pale was especially striking and made a feature of the garden beside the reflecting pool.
I also enjoyed the hedge which is designed in a cloud fashion,another of John's features and frames a lovely view across the fields where once a battle raged in 1631 or there abouts . Quite a whimsical idea which I got the feeling he enjoyed doing.

We wandered the grounds for some time before coming across the walled garden which John has had restored,what a delight that was with vegetables,fruits and herbs in abundance and served up in the cafe as fresh as you can get. Centre stage was a large scarecrow guarding the young lettuces and greens most at risk of the birds. I hope his trouble is rewarded . The other notable thing in this garden were the fruit trees espaliered along frames,their trunks were amazing,so thick must be very old indeed but still producing fruit for the residents and visitors to the garden.
More delicious shortbread and tea before we left the garden and travelled further along the M3 towards London albeit Guilford as it turned out . Next installment to come.....

London sojourn . June 27,2014.

Today is my chilling out day before travelling onto our next adventure starting tomorrow from Luton Airport to Sofia,Bulgaria.
The sunny weather continues here in London . I have been down the high street in Stroud Green to pick up cardboard boxes for Lou and some bits and pieces needed for the trip . Can you believe that I left the data card out of my camera behind,no wonder I could not take photos of Mottisfont!Dumb!
My washing is done and I am half way through packing for the walk so enjoying my leisure time.
The Heritage Rose Conference was better than expected as people were friendly and I made some new contacts in the rose world during coffee breaks and bus rides to see the gardens . I had to keep my ignorance in check so listened and learned from the experts, many had nurseries or were responsible for public plantings in their country of origin.
The day at Mottisfont was everything I had hoped for . We were put into 4 groups and allocated a team leader from the gardening crew who took us around and explained the workings of the garden and the history of it.
David,the head gardener explained how the garden came about and how he had developed it over his stewardship,he is an impressive man and we'll loved by his team of gardeners .He also gave us an insight into the work of Graham Thomas who established the original rose garden and for whom the conference was named for. I had no idea so much went on behind the scenes and that politics played a role in gardeners lives as well as other occupations . A fascinating insight into the back door so to speak . The car park development and the use of modern design were contentious issues.
Joan took us around the enclosure garden and explained the companion plantings and the thinking behind some of the choices and options taken,followed by a tour of the estate beyond the walled gardens down to the main house and grounds by another senior gardener . The magnificent trees on the estate are under his care and we were introduced to one of the top ten trees on the national  registrar of oldest trees . We also saw the original spring which gives the Priory it's name and checked out the mosaic angel and the features of the building.
Then Johnny Bass took us for a tour of the walled garden climbers and ramblers and explained their care and conservation . Lots of features for climbers to grow on and the variety was impressive.
We had a marque for our meals although many of us ate outside under the trees as it was very hot,about 28 degrees so very warm.
We also had time to explore the house and garden after the tours finished so I took a look through the art display at the house . Graham Thomas was also an artist of note so some of his work was on display along with the original collection of the Russells and some recent work from artists in residence . I explored the shop and spent time sitting in the main garden and smelling the roses . The perfume was everywhere although there were complaints recently that the didn't us scent was invasive!and spoilt the experience,could not see it myself as it was a mix of all the fragrances around me.
It was about six before the bus was loaded up and we returned to the hotel for a well earned rest . Great training for Bulgaria as we walked for hours in the heat . Thank goodness for my brolly.
My only disappointment was that I did not get to see Stockbridge,we drove to Romney because of the low bridges but same lovely countryside to enjoy.

Waiheke Island Hui 2014

Sunday, 16 February 2014

Waiheke Island Hui 2014

Waiheke Island
 My travels have been limited since returning home in August 2013  but I did have a trip to Waiheke Island for our hui in February this year. It was so nice to get away from our gloomy summer and wear summer clothes, have a barbecue on the beach and sit out on the deck late enjoying a meal with fellow kaiarahi.

Kaiarahi on board the ferry. Engia is our newest member and she travelled from the Cook Islands to be with us.

It was a lovely trip across to the island on the ferry and as you can tell from the faces we were all looking forward to our learning!
The hui is a learning curve for  kaiarahi and we learn new skills to work with our akonga on NAPP as well as improve our knowledge of 21st C leadership, especially our awareness of cultural diversity and Treaty of Waitangi partnerships with Maori.

Piritahi Marae

We work on our coaching skills and share our own learning via posters we had to create around an aspect of our  work with akonga. Initially it was a daunting challenge but we all rose to it and a lot of learning was done as we shared our learning together and discussed the implications of our investigations.
This year we were exposed to skilled Maori artists working on the island, some in private studios and others  working on carvings for the Whare kai on the Piritahi marae where we stay.

 At work in the whare nui

Paora outside his studio

The sculpture exhibition on Waiheke Island

The view from the marae-beautiful

 

Piritahi Marae is situated in a lovely bay opposite to where the ferry terminal docks. we have been coming here now for three years so it feels like home. We all have a connection now to this place and the whanau make us very welcome.
All to soon our three days came to an end and we headed back home in time to celebrate Waitangi Day. All the richer for our visit, prepared  and ready for another year of learning and fellowship.