Villa Conde to Bascellos-a long,long day.....We enjoyed our stay but keen to get underway so 8.00pm and off we go
What a lovely town to have our first night on the Camino-did I mention the lace makers we saw working last night at the museum near our hotel? They were amazing with their dozens of bobbins whizzing through their fingers creating traditional patterns from the region.They have a lace making school on site and young girls are trained in the craft from an early age.
Today's walk was gruelling,long and over many cobblestones,down roads which were narrow and cars whizzed by-too close for comfort in many cases.Driving is an art on these rural roads which wind through stone walled villages barely a car width wide.Brad and I flattened ourselves against the stones many a time just escaping the side mirrors.
The trail passed through rural towns with farmers at work on silage pits-smelly the world over! There are few animals to be seen here-some goats and poultry housed in the small holdings along with vegetable gardens full of corn and potatoes.
We walked a long way. Sometimes through vines and local pathways but often on country roads. We ate our lunch in a wilderness area on the outskirts of Rates.
We left before nine and arrived at 6.15 almost speechless with exhaustion,we could hardly speak to each other let alone organise anything.We arrived in the middle of a medieval festival which made finding our hotel a challenge but it was worth it when we did-very comfortable and relaxing.
We passed through some interesting places today. Rates was a fascinating place with an alberguere of medieval origins. It had Roman influences as well and people there lived a very agricultural life admidst vines and gardens. A wonderful old town centre,church and square which we wandered around taking pictures and envisaging a life centuries past- it was noted for its flower festival later in the month. Some Americans we met stayed there that night and there was a huge firework festival.
We enjoyed the gardens full of yellow lillies,roses ,wisteria and many flowers familiar to us.Hydrangas are popular here and people take pride in their displays.
Cobblestones were my friend to begin with but by the end of the day if my knee was jarred by yet another stone I could wish never to see another one.
We stopped for coffee at Antonia's, a refuge for pilgrims along the way and when he discovered we were kiwis he became very animated and produced a kiwi badge with symbols of penquins an kiwi on it.We had to sign his visitor book with due ceremony.
We had another two hours to walk-just as well we did not know that or maybe we would have stayed put.
Eventually we sighted the bridge over the Cavado River into Bascellos and joined the festival throngs.
Later that evening we joined in and ate our tea from one of the booths-kebabs and Turkish sweets as a treat.We watched the jousting and stage acts in costume and understood little but enjoyed the atmosphere until tiredness set in. Adieu...
33 kilometres tomorrow.....oh dear it is a long way so time to sleep on it.