Farewell to the Costa Brava

We have had a great week staying in L'Estartit.It was a lucky choice as I had no idea where it was when I booked it months ago.

The location was great,close to the beach, a supermarket close by with a bakery attached,perfect for our croissants and baguettes. The town was pleasant too with a walkway around the beach and into the town with its shops and restaurants.

We found a nice restaurant called Les Saline at the far end of the bay that had delicious sea food on the menu.I had a sardine entrée that was a taste treat along with a baked cod in vegetables.

The final few days have passed quickly and all to soon we were driving Chris to Girona to set him on his way home to NZ.
We had to find somewhere to get our boarding passes printed out so we had a short diversion into Girona town but we could not find an Internet cafe to print out stuff but we found a shop Lou recognized and we found some very good bargains.Pity about luggage restrictions.I bought a blue jersey as most nights I have been pretty cold by the time we get back.Not tonight though.Lou bought a dress for cooler days.We eventually found the information centre at the beach had a computer and printer we could use- free too.

We negotiated our way back to the beach for a final swim and sunshine to keep Lou happy until she can find more sun following the London winter.The wind was a bit cold for me but a sleep on the sand compensated.

Later we took the car for a drive to see, Peratallada, the oldest village in the region. Brad and I had the option of walking there during our second to last day but then an extra hours walking held little appeal so driving there was a bonus.
Peratallada was close to Paulou-Satour where we had stopped for coffee on our walk.It too was an interesting old town.We also drove passed the rice fields on the River Ter.These are protected as an area of national importance.

Well worth a visit. Peratallada really is old. Building of the defences started in 1065 and they found earlier evidence of habitation on the site during restoration.
Today it is a tourist mecca with lots of hotels,restaurants and craft shops to poke around.The streets were cobbled and flagged in stone and the old fittings on windows,doors testified to the age of the place.

We had a neat time poking around as it was late afternoon and most tourists had left. A wedding was underway as we arrived.
Our batteries ran out so our photographs were limited but we managed a couple of hours there before heading back for dinner on the waterfront,packing and our final night in L'Estartit.

Relaxing in L'Estartit

Rather weary today but the day is clear and sunny so the beach is a priority later on.
We had our breakfast sitting outside on the deck overlooking a wetland reserve which is noted for the bird life and aquatic features.
We decided to explore the market day which happens each Thursday before lunch.A good option as it turned out.It was quite extensive,covering a number of the main streets and featuring clothing,foods etc.We bought some yummy cheeses,smoked ham and dried meats,dried figs and some honey melon for lunch later on.A handbag for Jo and a coffee in the square.It was an enjoyable way to spend a morning.
After our lovely lunch we headed to the beach for a swim.The wind was still cool so it was a little bracing to start with but it got better and swim we did plus some baking on the sands.
Later we walked the full length of the waterfront before stopping for sangria at a outside bar.Lovely sitting in the sun enjoying the local tipple.
We ate out at a restaurant called Robert and the believe it or not ended up watching the All Blacks play Namibia at a sports bar nearby.
Another lovely day came to an end about midnight as we strolled back along the promenade towards home.

L'Estartit

The wedding weekend was over.Monday was departure day for most of the guests so a long breakfast sitting under the trees, a final chat and goodbyes said we loaded into the little Fiat rental car and took off for our apartment further up the coast to a small seaside town called L'Estartit.It took less than a hour to drive too and for me, passing places it had taken me hours of walking it was a bit surreal.Pals, where we had taken ages to find our way out of we were through in minutes  and the frigging castle was in our sights quite soon after leaving Hotel Eetu.
The first impressions were favourable when we drove into the town,there was no reception open but eventually managed to contact the agent by phone and while we waited we had a nice lunch of tapas on the beach,literally on the beach as cafes are on the sand.
The apartment was as promised,close to the beach and good facilities,even a washing machine and a coffee maker so we can self cater quite happily.
The afternoon was well on by the time we got a key and unpacked but we got in a swim and Chris a run before sitting out on the deck enjoying our own version of tapas.
The weather forecast was not great for the next couple of days however so we had plans to visit the Dali museum and Barcelona as Chris had not been there.
Tuesday we explored the waterfront area and found the main shopping street and the information centre so we have all the information needed but the wind was cool and skies overcast which was not what we had hoped for so we drove to Figurers so Lou and Chris could visit the Dali-Theatre Museum there. Brad and I had been earlier so
I did a reconoitre of the town and located the train station for the fast train to Girona,Barcelona and a timetable for getting to Barcelona.
They were impressed with the collection as I was so a good decision.
We had a home cooked meal of local sausages and salads plus local wines to finish our day.It was lovely sitting outside as the sun sank and illuminated the town.Quite a dramatic sunset.

The Pool Party

Well -the party continued on Sunday afternoon - and beyond!The venue is amazing so there were games activities, eating around the BBQ, lots of lovely food and wine flowed and the sun continues to shine.Not very warm but alright for swimming and the kids just loved it.
We had a leisurely start to the day at the hotel before going up to Mas Touroello. A swim in the bay was refreshing and the breakfast under the trees a good way to catch up with other wedding guests.Some guests were recovering from an all night party as the band played until daybreak I believe.The old aunts were in a taxi going home at a reasonable hour!
Els and Nick were great hosts and made everyone very welcome.They would be glad to get back to a nights sleep.It has been full on for them with so much of the organisation they have done themselves.
The taxi drama continued however,we ordered one at 6.30pm but 8.30pm we were still waiting.We sat outside for ages chatting away but it was a relief when it did arrive and we made our way down that tortuous track for the last time.I could understand why the taxi company was not too happy about responding to our calls but then time does not seem a priority here and service is when it comes!
Liz,Jenny and Brendon were leaving early the next morning so we had a coffee at the hotel and Brendon entertained us with hilarious stories of his Irish family.He is a real story teller.

Barcelona

The day was as predicted, not one for the beach so we set off for Girona to catch the fast train to Barcelona.It took about 35 min as opposed to two hours by the slow train.We left about eight hoping to catch an early train but that idea was foiled as the train only had two seats left so we had to hang about for nearly two hours for the next train.It worked in our favour as we were able to explore Girona old town which was quite impressive.

The massive  catedral is in a prominent position in the town and noted for the 90 steps leading to the main doors and known as the stairway to heaven.It has a  Baroque  exterior and a Gothic interior with the largest  nave in the world.The catedral is  a medieval marvel and has an austere beauty inside the knave itself.There is a museum and a bath house at the bottom of the steps.

We had a walk through old narrow streets of the old Jewish Quarter, winding up to catedral itself before having a nice coffee stop and enjoying toasted bikinis in the old town.

Eventually we boarded our train at a very smart station,quite new and well set out.The train runs at about 200 km per hour and we zapped along through rather more luxuriant scenery than I had anticipated.Quite green,tree lined and lots of farming activity.Autumn is showing in the colors of the trees and fields alongside the road to Girona and then onto Barcelona.

It was about 12.30 when we arrived and we bought a day metro pass and headed to the Sagrada Familia to start our day. We had a plan but that quickly had to change as the ticket queue was already well occupied and we could not get into the catedral until 5.15pm, plus the tower was sold out already.

We went into La Rambla and strolled down the length of it, stopping for lunch in a delightful old square called Placa Reial, just off the main thoroughfare and fringed with palm trees, arcades and cafes.The lamposts here were designed by Gaudi.This was lovely and by now the sun was out so we sat and enjoyed the atmosphere.Lou and I had the most amazing size beers in huge rounded glasses plus some nice Spanish food to wash it down.

Later we strolled through the old winding streets of el Gotic, so narrow you cannot get a car down them until we arrived at the waterfront area.This is where you can see amazing yachts and leisure boats ready for the Mediterranean holiday. Port Vell has plenty of action taking place on the water.We could have spent longer but time was running out.
We walked along to the Marco Polo statue where Lou bargained for a designer bag from the touts at the market there.
Later we visited the food market -Mercat de la Boqueria which is thought to be the biggest undercover food market in Europe for a look at the range of foods available,memories of our other trip with Rachel in 2008.She would love to be with us.

We walked back along the length  La Rambla until we reached Catalunya Square for a look at a couple of the iconic  Gaudi Casa buildings too. We saw the Casa  Batilo which  represents the legend of St George and his dragon along with  Casa Amatelier and some other of  the notable buildings along the avenue. We did rather stumble on them so that was a bonus before heading off to our visiting slot at Gaudi's masterpiece.

I was surprised at how much had been done since Lou and I were last here.Much of the interior has been completed and the vision I had had changed because of it.The light was still amazing but different time of the day so different colors dominated. The vaults under the alter were available for private prayer.
The ceilings soared and the embellishments and adornments take your eye in so many directions.The alter piece was also finished and there was seating installed.It is mesmerizing and walking around the huge interior you get a sense of what Gaudi intended, indeed a spectacle of glory.

By this stage it was about six and I was feeling very footsore and ready for a spell. It turned out so were Lou and Chris, so we opted to go back to the station and maybe get an earlier train back to Girona.
Just as well we did in the end as the google maps device on Lou's phone had a little tantrum and we ended up on a toll road so Lou had to back out of it!! Very stressful but at least it was not dark so we eventually got the map re-programmed and on track for home.

It had been a long day as we had left at eight and it was about nine when we drove into the car park.
I slept very well after all that walking.

Wedding day

An amazing day.An amazing venue and amazing food combined to give Els and Nick a wonderful day,so happy they were and many friends who have travelled to share their day.
Lots of music, singing and dancing continued  until the early hours of the morning.Wine flowed and family and friends crossed hands across boundaries.The Flemish family and friends love a party and showed us how to respond to singing and dancing.
The venue was amazing and provided a wonderful backdrop to a beautiful wedding ceremony.The ceremony was taken in both English and Flemish by Els's relative in a white bower set out on the lawn below an historic stone château.
The bride was led into the venue by bridesmaid sprinkling flower petals across her pathway.The bride was escorted to the wedding bower by her nephew and the ceremony was underway.

Palamos

What a pleasant place to stay for a few days.Typical beach resort with lots of sandy beaches and a laid back style.The town has quite a history as it was established centuries ago as the outpost for Barcelona barons rule and subject to forays from neighboring powers. Because of this the old town is interesting though small in comparison to some coastal places.
Today I visited the Fishing museum and was surprised at the presentation and detail of the collection.Interesting comparison to our fishing industry. Here it is an ancient craft and way of life for families.Men fish,women mend the sails and wait..Dangerous occupation of course and many still do things in traditional ways.
The fishing boats go out early and arrive back late afternoon in time for the fish auction at five.Brad and I did go and have a look at this and it is fascinating.Buyers come from all over,chefs,housewives etc compete for the best fish.Some are odd looking species.
To day the weather cleared before lunch so I had an indolent afternoon reading,swimming and lazing on the beach.I have got rather sunburnt though as it is hard to cover up with sunscreen.
Tomorrow I pack up and head to Hotel EETU, not far from Palafrugell where I meet up with the rest of the family.
It has been a nice sojourn but time for the next chapter.

Rest and Recover day.

Today has been very low key and we have enjoyed the opportunity to poke around the town in the morning.We had a late breakfast for us and enjoyed a substantial meal from an great selection of breads,croissants, fruits,meats and cooked offerings.Not sure how I will ever get back to my bowl of porridge!

We found the local weekly market which was huge and ran along a major street.There was also the regular food market attached so we spent time looking at the different foods available. The fresh vegetable section was huge with enormous peppers,lots of melons and everything in between.

I got myself clothed for the next stage of my trip.No longer a walker but a lounger and sun worshipper beckons.

I bought a beach towel with the map of our walk, a light scarf to cover my bathing gear and a beach bag for carrying everything,all for less than twenty euros so very happy.
I spent a few hours at the beach swimming and sunbathing.So nice to lie on the warm sand and people watch in between a swim or two but as it seems to do here the sun has gone and it is much cooler and it seemed I was one of the few left on the beach.Time to go and shower and read a book.

Brad went wandering around the town and arrived back about the same time so a cup of tea is the next pleasure in store.
We plan to go to see the fish market later but now reading a book seems the best idea.

The final day of walking the Costa Brava

My thoughts this morning ranged from relief to regret.
It was tough walking to start our week and I wondered how we would cope if it got more challenging.It is always hard to tell from the notes provided just what to expect but thankfully the days have become easier and more interesting.

Today was to be another long day walking,five hours in the notes but we have found them to underestimate the time.I think they use Google maps to work out the time on distance but that does not account for terrain and we have had some pretty hazardous climbing to do.
We set off after a very nice breakfast sitting outside admiring the view over the bay and packing for the last time.

We left about 9.30am on a warm,calm morning about 21 degrees so lovely walking weather.We climbed around a headland to start with and up and down little stony beaches.One even had a cafe tucked into the bank.

The trail  was mostly along the bays and beaches between Tamariu and Palamos but we did have a mountain pass to get across about halfway through the walk but it was easy stuff today.We are well conditioned to this level of climbing.

Some of the bays were old fishing villages so had quite a different feel to them than the wealthy holiday places in the popular beaches.One village was in the S' Alger Cove and is considered a place of National Cultural interest.It dates back to the 15th Century and provided shelter and refuge for fishermen and their gear.

The walk also had more walkers doing what we were doing so met a group from Norway who we had a chat too.They were in search of the sun they said.

The sandy beaches would be great for a swim but we had to keep moving or we would be very late to Palamos.

We passed some interesting relics of a different era. There was an archeological site dating back to Iberian settlement  in the 6th Century BC to the 2nd Century BC at Castell up on a headland called sa Cobertera.There is an old church now converted to a restaurant here with amazing views along the coastal pathway. We also passed the ruins of old castles, one of which is called the Castle of Sant Esteve de Mar. In its heyday it would have been part of the original settlement of this region.which were now derelict and stand as a reminder that this was a place of fiefdom and royal conquest.

In Capella de Parafugall  we had a coffee in a cafe overlooking the bay.It was a welcome break after some hours walking over the headland.
Lunch was on the top of the pass and afternoon tea at the hotel.
A very nice hotel it is too.The best place to stay here according to the BBC travel writer.Our room is not overlooking the beach but we are comfortably housed.
A hot bath, bags unpacked,washing done and a cuppa ,we are ready to explore the town before dinner.Restaurants open for meals at 8.30 pm so a bit of time to go yet.We found a local cafe with character and ate well for thirteen euros each.
Next excitement is the wedding,only a few days to go and we will all be getting together to celebrate Nick and Els's nuptials.It will be a change to wear nice clothes again.

Today was a bonus.

The walking today was very pleasant.We were off road for a good bit of the walk which was pleasant compared to the amount of road walking we have done.
The exit from Pals was frustrating,took us about forty minutes because of stupid instructions.Nobody has done this walk I suspect,just googled the route notes and embellished them a little but sending you looking for streets that do not exist is a Google trick.

Eventually we got out of town and onto a lovely track through pine forests to the town of Begur about an hours walk away.The path was sandy and lead up over a mountain pass but not too serious,past the oldest fortified farm in Spain and a riding school,all very relaxing on a fine,warm Sunday.
Not sure what happened to the thunder storms last night but no sign of rain.

Begur was another issue.We had a feeling before we left that it would be and sure enough complicated instructions had us off track for awhile.I even enlisted the help of the local police who were manning a stand in the main square.They were suitably puzzled too but the Information centre were on the ball and directed us to our walkway.
After this it was plain sailing towards Tamariu.The track led down through the forest until we reached the beach.Lunch on the way and thoughts of a swim kept us moving quickly.We got in before two today so lots of time to poke about.

The wind is unpleasant and the temperature has dropped so swimming has gone low on the list.We have had a stroll around but nobody on the beach so spent the time reading.I managed a whole book, how indulgent is that.

We have a meal included in our deal tonight so looking forward to that as it is a nice place and the welcoming receptionist said they have a jazz band from England playing tonight so sounds fun.

What a meal we enjoyed.Very posh.I had a strawberry and watermelon cold soup which was superb,a real taste delight followed by grilled turbot and Catalan Tiramasu. Wine was part of the meal so champers followed by rose and coffee we were well treated.Thw jazz band was very enjoyable too so a very enjoyable evening.We are sitting our side on our deck now soaking up the atmosphere,the wind has dropped and skies are clear so maybe tomorrow will be a typical day for this region.

We have just read the reviews of our hotel in Palmaros and it is highly reviewed best hotel in the city, so we will look forward to our next stop.

A walk in the countryside.

Today was a good walking day.We left about 10.30am as a reward for our long day yesterday.Breakfast in Spain is later too.Nothing much happens before 9.00 am.

We set out to see the rice fields.Apparently this region is famous for rice growing but as yet we are unconvinced that we have actually seen any rice growing.The region is so dry it is hard to believe rice would grow at this time of the year.
We did see lots of harvesting of grain,corn and apples as we walked across country.Pretty small scale farming compared to NZ but more sophisticated than the farms we saw in Poland with step and wooden trailers,horse drawn of course.

It has been our best day as we walked through several historic villages and stopped for coffee in one that took our fancy.
The weather was warm and cloudy so nice for walking because there was quite a breeze as we came into open fields.Lots of cyclists in this area but no walkers that we have seen yet.

We only had one small climb today so bonus day!The view from the lookout was worth it though as we looked back to the 'frigging castle' as Brad termed it.It dominates the landscape of the whole surrounding area.We could see out to the coastline and the blue of the Mediterranean Sea and lots of small villages dotted the plain below us.

The old Spanish villages are pretty work man like around here.You get the sense that life is unchanged for generations.
We followed the GR 92 trail from Torroella del Montgri to Pals where we stay tonight.It took us about four hours walking today which was civilized.

Still pleased to arrive and get the boots off.A hot bath and a soak helped old bones to recover before heading out to explore the old town.We did say we would not climb another metre that we did not have to but the old town beckoned and it was well worth the visit.Quite an historic place dating back to the 12th Century.Lots of tourists here and plenty of tat but the old town was very authentic and interesting to poke around in before dinner.

There is a storm expected tonight and it was spitting lightly as we window shopped in the town and again during dinner in the courtyard it was slightly damp.
We ate in a local cheerful cafe with lots of locals and their families.Cheap and cheerful I would describe it.Just like home where the blokes were sitting around the TV cheering on their local team over a glass or two of some thing. ....Here the whole family is out dining late.
I had a lovely salad full of goodies and a Catalan sausage with fried potatoes for my meal. We had planned a crepe but no room left.Next time.

It has been so nice to have time to read and relax after our walk but still with time to explore the town of Pals.Our initial impression was not positive as it was pretty dowdy but once we found the old part of town we changed our minds.It is another interesting place to visit.

A day of challenges,all 9 + hours of it

"This was a day for survival, not enjoyment",said Brad after we had been revived with a very lovely meal at our hotel restaurant.A couple of firsts for me,cuttlefish fish and fried artichokes plus the most delectable Creme Brule. It is a signature dish here and tonight it was delicious.Now about 10.30 so you eat late here but we are knackered as we have walked nine and a half hours.The notes indicated six so we were well outside the time but we encountered some very challenging terrain during the day.
The walk started around the bays and the port and across a headland to another bay or two,all good and it was a beautiful morning so enjoying ourselves at this stage.
We came into a lovely bay at Cal Montgo, perfect for holiday needs but from here it went down hill or up really.We climbed around a headland to a Capella with fortifications which took us ages as it was steep,not so well marked and rocky.You had to watch every step you took and it went up and down.Sometimes you were uncomfortably close to the cliff and the thought of a tumble down there made you extra cautious.We met quite a few people on this section walking their dogs and going for a swim in one of the pretty beaches.
We finally got to the top of the headland at Punta de Mila which was the site of coastal defences during the war with a great view out across the Mediterranean.
Then we walked and walked.Across a red stony road which seemed to go for miles and miles across the Natural Park so lots of stunted pines,herbs like rosemary growing wild and some little white orchids lined the road.This was hard on your feet this stretch.We eventually stopped for lunch under a tree.

At this point we were running an hour behind time so not too bothered.
We continued along a forestry area which was easier and skirted a small village called Torre Vella which seemed not too far from our destination on our map.The notes did not indicate what was to come next.

We were confronted by a mountain ahead of us which we thought sounded on our notes like we went across a pass.Well the pass was up and over the top!!All 474 mtres and steep,straight up it went.I thought I was seeing things.Anyway up we went and survived that only to find the track led downhill on a rocky slippery path and then up to an abandoned castle some 330 meters above the crossing.This was like a goat track and just a scramble. No fun in this stretch.Thank goodness for our two walking sticks.They have been a god send this trip,both here and in the Tatras.

The castle was not even worth it.It had been there since the thirteenth century but never finished,a shell really but it was obviously a challenge for locals to climb before tea as we met so many people climbing up on the village side as we came down.It was a good place to fly their flag as well but as it was windy there was much flapping and entanglement.It had been pretty hot until this part of the trek but then a wind was helpful as I lost a lot of sweat coming up the pass so cooled down a lot for the downhill stretch.

The track was zig zagging on this side but tricky coming down as it was slippery and lots of rocks.Brad had a tumble but survived.
We eventually arrived at our hotel in Torroella De Montgri at seven o'clock. Nine and a half hours after setting out.We were exhausted and took awhile to recover our spirits but a hot bath and a good meal have helped so now all is needed is a good night's sleep......

Spain, well the Costa Brava to be precise, here we come.....

We have started our second phase of walking holidays on the Costa Brava with a stay in Figuerers.The town is famous for the Dali Theatre Museum and the town he grew up in.

We were booked into quite an upmarket hotel with a reputation for gastronomic excellence.The chef is well known and we were told he owns the hotel.

Our meal here was part of our package so we sampled the menu.Brad even had her water cooled in a champagne bucket.The waiters were all in uniform and the maitre 'D was in tails.Very posh.
Meal was superbly presented and tasted as good.

During our rest day we went to see the Dali Museum and the Jewels exhibition which was attached.This was such a treat.The museum is the repository of his works the way he wanted them housed along with some of his own art collection.His muse and wife featured in a number of his works apparently as they aged he kept painting her in new poses.She was older and died some years before him but he had to make an appointment to see her in later years.Fascinating man and an artist of huge capacity.He wrote books,exhibited,designed for opera and explored many artistic modes even as we found out designing and creating jewellery.This was amazing and so beautiful,so pleased to see this exhibition.

Today we started our walk and we were dropped off by our tour representative at a town on the GR 92, a national walkway which we will be following along the Costa Brava.There was a nice stretch through the bird sanctuary and out to the coast but the rest was ho hum as we walked on local roads for some hours with resulting sore feet.We passed apple orchards and smelt pig farms!!We stopped for a coffee in a small, antique aged village but it was raining for the rest of the trip,not heavy but persistent so very pleased to arrive in L'Escala and find our hotel.

I have to say I was knackered.Seven hours walking is a tough ask for old feet so a big rest was required before heading out to find a meal.We ate at a restaurant along the waterfront and had Fideua, a local  seafood stew delicacy recommended by our guide this morning.It was tasty but not sure I could eat a lot of it.
The day has improved and the forecast is improving for tomorrow so another six hours tomorrow to look forward to.Better sleep well.

Leaving Krakow today for Girona

Well the day has arrived for us to leave this lovely city.We have really enjoyed our stay and feel lucky to have had such a varied trip to date. The bridge between the old east and the west is not as great as you might imagine. It is a well ordered place from what we have seen.People appear friendly and contented.No sign of disaffected groups hanging out but it is a party town where many countries are represented.Lots of clubs,bars and food outlets so tourists are well catered for.Prices are cheap and service comes free unless you choose to tip.Police do not carry guns on the street and they are low key.Cars and rail cars stop for pedestrians here,so you feel safe.
The culture is strong here despite centuries of oppression and war between neighbour's. The music and arts flourish and they have a very old university with illustrious alumni.
Our last day was spent exploring the old Royal Walk up to the castle and the cathedral.This is an attractive place overlooking the city and a strategic spot on the River Vistula.
We got tickets to the state room in the castle and saw through the state rooms which housed treasures in art and furniture.We wanted to see the ceiling with the heads of kings embedded in it.No photos allowed here though so a postcard is the best I can do.The ceilings throughout and the candelabras were impressive.
We had hoped to see the cathedral and dragon but ran out of time but we had a good wander about and saw the bronze statue of The Lady of Ermine by Van Dyke.
Back to the hotel and gathered up our bags to head for the bus station and get my phone fixed at the Samsung shop.
Next few hours en route to Girona where we arrived late but still 17 degrees.A lot women than our last few days in Poland.

Auschwitz - Birkenau Concentration Camp

Today was a grueling day.I imagined it would be but nothing quite prepares you for the reality of this experience.
It is a sombre place by nature of its history but the effect on the tour group was noticeable and little chatter was heard amongst the group as we toured the museum at Auschwitz. Some took photos but even that seemed disrespectful in such a setting.
It was a cool and dismal day when we set out and several layers of clothing was required.I went solo today as Brad had already been years ago.It is relatively simple getting around here,tour groups pick you up from the hotel and keep tabs on you so no concerns about getting lost.
It took about an hour to get to Auschwitz,travelling through some pleasant rural communities.You get used to the steep roofs and gingerbread shapes of houses here,mostly wooden but rough caste and brick feature in different districts.The gardens have lots of conifers to 20th stand the winter cold but hanging baskets and Window boxes add colorful touches to their houses plus they rather go in for garden gnomes and animals.
It was hard to concentrate on the scenery as a video was played throughout the trip on the background to the camp and the events that led to the Holocaust. Compelling viewing and it is dedicated to those who died during the extermination. I was surprised at the scope of the killing,Poles were the first,their youth and then their priests and academics so they would not bring about an uprising, others followed at any sign of unco-operation with the Nazis. The first of September 1939 was when the Nazis arrived in Krakow,followed shortly after by the Russians and the horror began for local Poles and the Jewish community there.The Jews from all European countries were sent here plus the gypsies and Russians. Poland had the second biggest community of Jews in Europe ,about thirty million.
On our arrival at the museum we were all screened as if we were flying out before our guide gathered our group together and led us through the museum.Seeing the cramped conditions, the overcrowding,hearing about the inhumane treatment of innocent people, the indignities they suffered daily was difficult enough but seeing the display cases full of human hair ,spectacles,children's shoes,prosthetic limbs was disturbing.
Those images will be hard to displace yet tonight we turn on the TV and there are Syrians arriving in Munich in  their thousands looking for hope and refuge, a few belongings with them and horror left behind.Have we learned anything from the lessons of the past.
After we explored the living conditions of the prisoners we went into the gas chamber and saw the wall where men were shot.The hospital where experiments were conducted on women and children was another horror story amongst the many told during the hour and a half.
After we finished we drove to nearby Birkenau where the huge purpose build camp was constructed by the prisoners from the houses which were taken from the Poles.Their villages were taken over and the village razed in order to build this place.
The train lines lead right in through the gate into the he'll which awaited them.Most thought they were going to a better future so there was no panic on arrival but once they were sorted into work fit or not the die was cast.only the names of those who were registered to work were recorded so huge numbers of names are unknown to this day.
There is a peace memorial here which is powerful and a memorial walk with plaques for each country to mark the loss of their citizens.
It is the size of this place that compels attention,it is huge and even today it remains a reminder of the horror caused by despots and power.The women's camps are of brick and still standing but the men's camp was built of wood so only the chimney stands are standing, not that they ever had fire to keep them warm it was to suggest all was well inside them for the likes of the Red Cross.
Our tour guide was impressive, she has an enormous knowledge of the subject and answered many questions on the topics which interested people.
We had about an hour walking around the site,in the rain for much of the day so it was good to get on the bus and reflect on the lives we have been privileged to enjoy compared to these souls.
I got back to the hotel after four o'clock just as Brad was making a cup of coffee so timing was perfect.
Later we walked down to the Jewish quarter for a revisit of our tour to have a drink at the cafe with Singer sewing machine tables-mum would appreciate that.Our guide told us it is a lively cafe where people dance on the tables.We were too early for that.
We dined at a famous restaurant in the old square and had a very tasty meal,our last in Krakow.

Touring the Jewish Quarter with Gosia

Today it rained,really rained so I had to buy an umbrella as we planned to join the free walking tour of the Jewish district.It was also cold when we started out in the morning so on went the jerseys for a change.
We started our morning with a church service at St Mary's Catholic church which is the parish church in the main square and a working church.It was packed for morning mass.The interior is spectacular,very ornate as befits a prosperous town.It has a beautiful altar and the decorative features are in gold leaf,the ceiling is starry and the vestments etc are all of great quality.The music was wonderful and we sat and enjoyed the choir music.

Our next stop was the Free Walking tour stop where we met our guide Gosia,a very passionate local who is studying Jewish history at University.She was great value and undertook the tour in a positive mood despite the rain pelting down.Fortunately it eased off later in the tour and by the end of the walk the sun was shining.
We started in the main square because that was where the history of the Jews in Krakow began.They were early settlers but accused by the local Poles of burning down their church.The King was asked to intervene so he banished the Jews to the town of Kazimierz outside the city  walls but allowed them to continue trading in the city.

We saw the remnants of Jewish life here in Krakow because once a thriving community of sixty five thousand they now number about ten percent of that total and only one hundred and forty Orthodox Jews remain.That is official figures but for several reasons there are more than that.Some  Poles are just discovering their Jewish heritage on the death of grandparents who had kept their identity secret all these years so they could stay in Poland.
We walked to the suburb of Kazimierz to see the Orthodox Church Synagogue and the associated religious prayer houses and places of learning.Men and women did not sit in the same part of the church in case of distrations.A service was just finishing and the men leaving the service were wearing traditional orthodox gowns and looked suitably distinguished at tourists taking photos etc.

We saw market places and the ghetto area filmed making Shindlers List. It has now become a trendy bohemian centre of artists and musicians,a favourite hang out of our guide for her social life.

The making of this movie has transformed this area as prior to the film it was seedy and run down as the original Jewish community had been moved by the communist to another area  Podgorze, which was further away and became  known as the Ghetto. From there they were taken for execution to a gas chamber outside of the city.No one came back from this camp,only four escaped and they jumped from the train so there are no stories from survivors of this camp.

We walked to the ghetto memorial where bronze chairs stand to commo rate the loss of personal things.The artists who won the competition to design an installation suitable for remembering the Jews of Krakow chose the chair as a symbol because they represent known things,comfort,permanence but also the chairs face different directions.Some of the chairs sit on the edge and symbolize the onlookers,some face the direction they might leave in - this depended on your health and status but there was little escape possible for the majority. They were hunted down and slaughter by the Germans.
I found this place very moving.
From here we walked to Shindlers Factory where he sheltered many Jews and controversially has been honored by the Jewish Council for his actions.Some say he did it for other reasons,namely to ,se money but he did enable many to escape extermination and give those families hope and a future.I may go back to see through the museum later but another two hours of history making was a bit much for my brain so we took a break and went on a cultural binge.
Nearby was the museum of Modern Contemporary Art which offered toilets a good coffee both of which were needed.
We gained free entry to the museum because we were over seventy!!!Anyway a  fascinating exhibition unfolded in this modern building,newly opened and very light and airy galleries.It was a Gender in Art Exhibition  with artists from international collections.Quite avante garde , controversial and thought provoking images of how gender is represented through various forms of media and the messages that gives viewers.
Well worth visiting.
We went to see the main art gallery in the Cloth Hall too which had more traditional art works displayed in conventional styles but interesting to see how there major artists were influenced by styles such as impressionism and post modernism etc.The Girl in the Ermine by Van Dyke was not there as we had been led to expect which was disappointing but we were so tired and hungry it was home for us.zthe rain was starting again so back to the hotel for a rest about 4.30pm.
A big day out....