Saturday, 1 July 2017

St Petersburg and the Palaces of Peterhof and Catherine

Today was very special. We had an all day tour of the Palaces of Catherine and Peterhof booked so it was an early start as we were to travel twenty six miles out of St Petersburg to the summer palace. Six ò'clock start for breakfast and on the bus by 7.15 am.
It was a cloudy and cool start to the day but the day improved as we arrived at Peterhof and it became quite warm as we walked around the grounds of the palace.

Peterhof was the vision of Peter the Great who established St Petersburg on the swampy site on the shores of the Baltic sea. He designed and built hi palace on the great castles he had seen on his travels in France and Amsterdam. Peterhof was said to rival Versailles. This Palace was his retreat and he sailed here from the city and sailed his barge up through the canal to the steps of the castle. He did not like mechanical things however and craftsmanship was highly valued.

Our trip took us out into the countryside where there was evidence of industrial Estates and agricultural activity.

Catherine's Palace was our first stop and we were ahead of the tourist crowds for a change although there was a bit of waiting around for tickets. I think there could be a tourist revolution here in the future -queuing is so boring and the cruise had already booked us on the tours.

There was quite a bit to see as we waited though and groups of musicians were tuning up to entertain us ( for money of course) but they were entertaining and played the Russian Folk music in stirring fashion. The outside of the palaces is spectacular, a beautiful blue and white exterior of the main wing topped with golden domes and spires which were burnished with gold and shining in the light. Later we saw the sun shining on them and it was even more spectacular.

Catherine's Palace was designed for Catherine by Resletti, an Italian architech much favoured by Catherine. It was completed in four years on the back of much hard labour!!!! It is a baroque style and much of it has been rebuilt after the Germans gutted it during their  occupation during WW2. It also suffered fire damage so the chapel is still under restoration.

The blue and white exterior has many cherubs, staues and adornments covering the facade, pillars, balconies and the gold filigree entrance gates were stunning. I had some fun with my camera trying to capture this grandure. The facade is nearly 1000 feet long and shimmers with the gold features.

Catherine's Palace is an amazing experience inside too. We toured through the rooms in our groups to see the refurbished palace. The opulence and extravagance of this era was mind boggling,  no wonder they met a sticky end!

The interior is narrow, one room in depth so you can see out to the lovely park gardens, all manicured and  designed to set off the palace.

 It did make for narrow corridors and rather a crush as we progressed through the palace. Twelve thousand visitors pass through this place a day in summer. We did not get to see the private quarters of the family,they are only shown to small groups in winter but we did see the state rooms, dining areas, reception rooms and Catherine's study. Catherine was well educated,intelligent and eventually she encarcerated her husband and became ruler. She was much loved by the people. She had begun life as a washer women at the palace.

We also got to see the much vaunted amber room but I did not find it to my taste.

After we explored the palace we did get outside into the gardens where we explored part of Catherine's Park. There were lots of elaborate Pavillions dotted around the park for musical soirees. We were 3ntertained to a classical performance while we were there which was amazing.

After this experience we were transported to a new palace built in a traditional style.  It was a replica of the baroque style,even the toilet  had gold mosiacs and we were served lunch here.

The meal was very traditional with Boosh, chicken,salad  and a fruit dessert with champagne.

Then it was off to Peterhof. The day was improving and by the time we arrived the sun was out and it became quite warm. The palace was out on the coast so we travelled past the traditional dacaus(holiday homes) once allocated to the people by the communist state but now they are on the private market.

Peterhof is noted for its fountains. When you stand on the terrace of the Palace and look down on the Grand cascade of fountains and out to the long canal running out to the Baltic Sea where Peter would arrive on his royal barge.

The fountain was built to celebrate the overthrow of Sweden and there are allegorical links to the state of Sampson and the overthrow of the enemy.

The water to the fountains are not pumped but bought down from Springs twenty miles inland by pipes and fed individually to the fountains. The size of the fountain related to the size of the pipes delivering get the water.

Peter was known own for many things,including dentistry. He treated his soldiers and tooth extraction was considered one of his skills.

We explored the gardens first which was lovely as the sun was out and then day took on a different hue.

We enjoyed walking in the park planted in lovely first, linden trees all had species because of the cold but they did have beautiful displays of tulips which had been bought in from Holland. Lilacs and horse chestnut trees were in flower and hosts, pansies and petunias were planted in the borders.

Our time came to tour inside the Palace and it all went according to clockwork. No photos here but much was similar to Catherine's Palace in terms of grandure.  No money was spared here for the king.

It was very hot I side so I was glad to get outside again. Much of this Palace has had to be restored as the Germans destroyed looted, stole 70% of the artworks,furniture etc. Great efforts were made by staff to bury the treasures and hide things from the invaders but it was left to women who were not strong enough to finish the task.

One million civilians died of starvation during the siege of Leningrad. 

Our guide was very good but by the end of the day my brain was in overload so it was a relief to jump back onto the bus for a hours drive with the joy of asking through the immigration officers scrutiny as we recorded the ship.

Our day finished with a great concert by The Opera Boys, two tenors with great voices in the theatre so we were very spoiled with our day out.

No comments:

Post a Comment